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#1 |
Guest
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What kind of temperature swings did you get from the heating of the cement above? If the temp moved more than a few degrees during the day you probably need to readdress the insulation before you worry about a chiller. I recommend a minimum of R-33 in the ceiling and R-20 in the walls. And don't forget the floor. A cement floor will need at least R-20 to prevent heat seepage. Keeping a room cool is not the big issue for wine - it's the temperature stability. Every time your room moves a degree or two in temperature the expansion and contraction of the contents of the bottle will force oxygen through the corks hastening the decline of your wine.
I'll also reiterate, if you are going to chill the room to store wine, you are definitely going to want a vapor barrier on both sides of the insulation. That's because condensation will form anywhere there is a significant temperature gradient and you don't want that occurring inside your wall. The units from Koolspace and Breezeaire are fine units and if you have insulated correctly you won't need a split system to cool your small room. Mount a unit next to the door exhausting into the hallway and you'll be fine. It will make a little noise; the fans are audible, but it will sound like a large refrigerator not a Cessna. |
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#2 | |
Working on Reality
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I am going to maintain the temperature at 65 degrees. For about 8-9 months of the year the room self regulates to 65. During the summer months the room is heated to 70 from the ceiling. The room temperature is constant. It builds to 70 and pretty much stays there until the summer passes and it returns to 65 which it is now. This is a cement room. There were no stud walls at the start. I do not have an area to exhaust a portable unit to or I would get one. The exhaust pipe would have to be around 20 feet. The manuals state you can not go more then about 6 feet. The extended length causes more back pressue and will lead to reduced cooling and equipment failure. Last edited by ca21455; 10-26-2008 at 12:40 PM. |
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