Quote:
Originally Posted by shilala
Watersorb is just SAP. It simply gives off and absorbs water, there's no control over RH levels. It won't adsorb water from the air once it's wetted, either. It only works in one direction, and that's to give off water.
If you hydrate it with a 50/50 propylene glycol solution then you can keep your RH at 70% in your humi.
You gotta supply ample surface area though, and that's tough when you have a big humi. It takes up a lot of floor space.
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I just read what I wrote, and left out a biggie.
"Propylene/water hydrated SAP doesn't adsorb water" is a large point.
If for some reason the ambient RH around a humi is greater than 70%, there's great potential for problems, especially if a humi is leaky.
If someone lived in Arizona or the desert or up in Siberia, it's an excellent choice because those humis require a lot of available water.
The reason Mark and Dave's beads work so well is that they have a component that regulates the water output (via principles you can see in a lot of papers, including those written about hydrated aqueous salt solutions and denatured alcohols), as well as an adsorbative component, which is the unhydrated silica gel.
When cared for properly, they'll regulate humidity in both directions, as they're intended to, and they'll do it very well.
That's why it's so important not to "overwater" the beads. If you do, you've effectively turned the beads into the same thing as a SAP/Glycol combination or worse. Too much water on the beads and you've basically created a bowl of water. That's why it is SO important to read the directions, follow them, and ask questions.
If we don't understand "how they work", it leaves a large margin for error, and we can easily undo the bead's efficacy.
My beads don't work quite like Mark's or Dave's. There's no salt or chemical component in them that regulates evaporation.
They rely on the principle of equilibrium, tons of math, and a well sealed humi. They also rely on a "care" regimen that's designed to remove human error. They also take advantage of an adsorbative capacity that's far in excess (greater than 800% per volume) that of Mark or Dave's beads.
By not having any additives, there's just more room. The structure of HCM beads is much different, too. That allows for a far greater amount of water to be present in them.
Their structure also allows a much higher covalency (electrical charge) that pushes water back and forth between the beads and their surroundings.
Another think is that HCM bead's internal structure allows for a much higher level of depracation, meaning they won't crack or break down over time. There's no reason why they won't last forever when maintained properly.
Add to that, the pores in the beads are too small for free hydrocarbons (cigar smells) to enter them, plugging the beads and reducing their effectiveness. The holes are just the right size to gather and store free ammonia, and they have an almost infinate capacity per volume to do so, making them ideal for aging cigars.
Which brings me around to a point...
There are tons of things that work. Some very well.
An individual's choice should involve where they live, how well their humi seals, how well they can (or want to) follow instructions, and education.
Sean made excellent points earlier. I could use his sweater and control the RH in my humidors using it, a bowl, some water, and salt.
I use my beads because it's easier.
If I weren't using my beads, I'd be using Mark's or Dave's.
I hope this helps!!!
Scott