Meh. Changed my mind. 20 hours in and the problem is that I bought it just as I was running out of Skyrim content. It's not the same game to be sure. But it's definitely fun for a romp.
There are a list of about a dozen "non-combat" skills (alchemy, blacksmithing, persuasion, detect hidden, etc.) you can put one point in per level. But then I found out about the trainers.
Apparently there's an in game "full respec" system as well, so no more starting from scratch to try another toon build.