Originally Posted by bobarian (Post 119529)

I understand the concept and your pics are great. But exactly how do you are you planning to regulate humidity? The Oasis will continue to add humidity, but without a regulating agent how will you keep a constant Rh if it rises above your set point(summertime)?

Originally Posted by MikeyC (Post 119556)

I've often thought about removing the foam in my Hydra and replacing it with some of the Heartfelt beads (I already have a bunch so why not?).

Originally Posted by bobarian (Post 119529)

I understand the concept and your pics are great. But exactly how do you are you planning to regulate humidity? The Oasis will continue to add humidity, but without a regulating agent how will you keep a constant Rh if it rises above your set point(summertime)?

Originally Posted by HK3- (Post 119667)

I think that's a great idea. Those floral foam deals just get clogged even if you only used distilled water.



You wont find anything copper in Michigan... all the meth heads have already stolen it. :r

Originally Posted by s15driftking (Post 119696)

if theres 300.00 worth of copper in a catylitic converter.. .why are they only like 100 bucks? i know that metal is universally market priced. and to build somethign with 300.00 dollars worth of copper.. that company is going to pay at least 250.00 for that copper..

???

Originally Posted by bobarian (Post 119529)

I understand the concept and your pics are great. But exactly how do you are you planning to regulate humidity? The Oasis will continue to add humidity, but without a regulating agent how will you keep a constant Rh if it rises above your set point(summertime)?

Originally Posted by cf2112 (Post 119603)

I've been using Super Absorbant Polymers from www.watersorb.com. for years. They look similiar to those you pictured and work better than the foam. I use them in Cigar Oasis, Hydra and my Set n Forget

Originally Posted by s15driftking (Post 120073)

i got the heartfelt 65% amd they jsut didn't do the trick.... that's why im here

Originally Posted by SeanGAR (Post 119622)

I forgot to mention that I toss some copper wire into the mess of hydrated crystals ... copper has antimicrobial activity.

http://www.iht.com/articles/2008/03/...s/microbes.php

Originally Posted by bobarian (Post 120821)

I still dont understand how you will be keeping humidity lower than ambient during the moist months. As Silhound said, he is using PG to accomplish this task. If ambient humidity rises to 80%, how will turning off the Oasis remove the excess humidity? During the winter your system should work great, but I am concerned with the warm humid months.

Originally Posted by bobarian (Post 120821)

I still dont understand how you will be keeping humidity lower than ambient during the moist months. As Silhound said, he is using PG to accomplish this task. If ambient humidity rises to 80%, how will turning off the Oasis remove the excess humidity? During the winter your system should work great, but I am concerned with the warm humid months.

Originally Posted by Bear (Post 120864)

If I had to guess, the ambient humidity doesn't get too high where the OP lives (OH) even in the warmer months. I could be wrong though...
I wonder how big the humi is. Is this a cabinet or a desktop (a CO would be overkill for the standard desktop IMO)? If the seal is less then ideal, his set up should work no problem especially if he's in and out of it on a regular basis.
Bottom line IMO is that even if you put a glass of water in your cabinet humi, the RH won't spike like mad due to the lack of air circulation being forced over the surface of the water. I don't see how this would be any different.

Now, with that said, if the temp & ambient humidity gets high in the warmer weather you might run into problems keeping your RH low enough. In the OP you mention that beads weren't doing the trick for you... my :2 is keep them in there anyways as they'll act as a desiccate should you ultimately need it.

Originally Posted by ucla695 (Post 120825)

In lieu of copper, you can also add a small amount of grain alcohol to the polymers to inhibit the growth of mold.

Originally Posted by s15driftking (Post 121041)

so my choices to help prevent mold are:

1. 80 proof vodka
2. Copper
3. PG

is that correct? assuming i am going to use either vodka or PG... how much should i use?

Originally Posted by s15driftking (Post 120073)

i got the heartfelt 65% amd they jsut didn't do the trick.... that's why im here

Originally Posted by Silound (Post 121507)

VODKA WARNING!

Vodka will lend a definite sweet taste to your cigars on the wrapper. If you use alcohol, go with the grain alcohol.

Originally Posted by s15driftking (Post 121691)

what ia defined as "grain alcohol" that can be had at a "licka sto"??

Originally Posted by s15driftking (Post 121837)

they don't sell it in ohio. what about gin? i own alot of gin, hehe

Originally Posted by s15driftking (Post 121837)

they don't sell it in ohio. what about gin? i own alot of gin, hehe

Originally Posted by bobarian (Post 120821)

I still dont understand how you will be keeping humidity lower than ambient during the moist months. As Silhound said, he is using PG to accomplish this task. If ambient humidity rises to 80%, how will turning off the Oasis remove the excess humidity? During the winter your system should work great, but I am concerned with the warm humid months.

Originally Posted by silound

Here's a brief rundown for you:


Propylene Glycol is a diol alcohol (a type of organic alcohol), meaning it contains two hydroxyl groups in it's chemical structure, and it has an asymmetrical carbon atom. Because of this, the liquid is hygroscopic, meaning that it has a natural ability to attract water molecules from the surrounding environment. Because PG is also fully miscible (term that means the property of liquids to mix in all proportions, forming a homogeneous solution), it will eventually release moisture into the air when the relative humidity drops below that of the PG solution's proportion of water.

Purchased PG solutions are mixed at approximately 60-40 distilled water/PG. Because there is already water in the solution, the PG has attracted and mixed with it. In other words, PG solution is water AND PG, so it sets a baseline for the PG to balance at around 70%. This is why if you add PG solution to an already well humidified environment (70+%), it takes a little more time to balance out than if you added it to an environment nearer 70% RH.

The gel (crystals in Xikar humidifiers) that you wet with PG solution is simply a silica that absorbs and extrudes water based compounds, hence organic alcohols like PG that are water based. When combined, the gel will absorb the PG solution, which will in turn attract water from the surrounding environment, or eventually give it up to humidify the air.

The silica beads are similar to the gel in function (chemically different though). They are also a desiccant, which means they will also absorb humidity from the air. Depending on the chemical bonding order of the atoms, various forms of silica have various absorption levels, rates, and capacities.


The one myth to debunk. Plan silica gel or beads do NOT "extrude" moisture. Rather when the ambient humidity drops below a point, the beads simply dry out as the humidity is wicked back out of them. The bonding order and surface area of the silica used determines how fast they lose humidity (or gain it).

Because of PG's natural willingness to "give off" moisture, silica gel and PG solution will help bring humidity UP faster, while silica beads will take longer to lose moisture. Dry beads will always trump dry gel to remove excess moisture, and that I don't have a real good answer to.


Anyway, hope that helps some!

Originally Posted by s15driftking (Post 120073)

i got the heartfelt 65% amd they jsut didn't do the trick.... that's why im here

Originally Posted by s15driftking (Post 122147)

can anyone confirm if Gin would work well as the "Grain alcohol" needed to sterilize the gel?

Originally Posted by DonnieW (Post 122653)

I like the penny idea. While I've never tested it to see how well it kills mold, it is certainly goof-proof.