A Question for you Builder of Buildings types

[stitch]

I am involved in building myself a new work shop … And I am NOT a builder of Buildings …
The shop is 20’ wide x 24’ long, Floor joists are 2x10 on 16” center
Walls are to be 2x6 16” OC
The Roof has a 4-12 pitch, I’m planning on putting 2x6 Ceiling joists at 16” OC
My question is … will 2x6 roof rafters 24” OC be ok ???
Some of the information out there about this stuff is both conflicting and confusing …

[RGD.]

I'm not familiar with the loads in your area - but normally 2x6's on 24oc should not be a problem as long as they are framed correctly and the proper wood is used such as Southern Pine no. 1 and not a Spruce/Pine.

Are you working from plans?

Have you considered using trusses? Initial cost may be more but they save in the installation. Most lumber yards have stock sizes ready to deliver.


Ron

[thebayratt]

I'm not familiar with the loads in your area - but normally 2x6's on 24oc should not be a problem as long as they are framed correctly and the proper wood is used such as Southern Pine no. 1 and not a Spruce/Pine.

Are you working from plans?

Have you considered using trusses? Initial cost may be more but they save in the installation. Most lumber yards have stock sizes ready to deliver.


Ron

I would go to your local permit office and ask them what the local code is (and buy a building permit if you need one). 24" seems to be ok but deffinately use Pine! Spruce is too week. I also 2nd the idea of premade trusses. They are a little more cost wise, but so much easier just to get a few guys to walk them up, then secure them!!

I would go check what the local code says. Then if a building inspector comes out to check the work, you won't have to tear anything down or apart. Get a permit (if needed in your area) and do it right (for your area) and you shouldn't have any regrets.

[shilala]

I'd go to the next shop down the street and see how it's built. :tu

[captain53]

What is the span (length) of the rafters and do you have snow/how much max if you do?

I think it should be fine but I am about 10 feet from a structural engineer that I can ask for you - I do concrete/asphalt.

[HK3-]

I would only worry if you got lots of snow in the winter. Arizona though.... you should be just fine. I would recommend a poured floor vs. wood. :2cents

[stitch]

First you have to realize where I live :D
There really is no "Code" ... They don't care how you build it, only WHERE you build it.
I just got back from the building Dept., I'm on hold untill they figure out what my zoning is and what my set back's need to be.
I did look into Trusses but they are Waaaay expensive here because they have to trucked in from over 100 miles away... and I'm on tight budget.
We do get snow here, I'm at 7,000 Ft. elivation, We rarly get more than 6" at a time here in the valley and it usually only lasts two or three days.
I don't want a slab floor because I work in there all day and slab floors are hard on my feet and back, And they are Cold!
The total length of each rafter will be about 11 1/2 feet. with a ridge board.
So for now I just wait ... There is no "Building" engineer around here.

[JaKaacH]

Its better to over build than rebuild..Build for 12" of snow then you never have to worry about it.:2

[captain53]

Structural guy had to run to a meeting, I will get you an answer in the morning.

[JaKaacH]

You could build your own trusses.
http://www.wendrickstruss.com/Calculator/index.asp

[stitch]

I'm a Saddle and Holster Maker .... Not a Master Carpenter -(P

[stitch]

It was suggested to me today that I build my walls on 24"OC ...
What ya'all think about that ????

[RGD.]

. . .
The total length of each rafter will be about 11 1/2 feet. with a ridge board.
. . .


Jeff - figure out your clear span - from the ridge to where it meets the outside edge of the top plate. Then use this chart - check on the wood availability (southern pine structural). If the wood is different then let me know what type and I can run this again for you.

Southeren Pine 2x6 with 24" oc and a snow load of 20 psf = 11-2" max span.
Southeren Pine 2x6 with 16" oc and a snow load of 20 psf = 12-9" max span.
Southeren Pine 2x8 with 24" oc and a snow load of 20 psf = 14-8" max span.

If your snow load is higher, let me know that also.

In the first sentence I said use the outside edge for your span. Since you are a non-carpenter type (grins) just allow the rafter to rest on the wall and then use hurricane straps on each one. The use a tie (2x6 or 4) across each rafter. Kind of like a squatting "A" where the horizontal on the "A" is the tie. I can draw you a picture if needed.

We can either talk and I can send drawings.


Ron

[RGD.]

It was suggested to me today that I build my walls on 24"OC ...
What ya'all think about that ????

Load bearing walls on 16" and non load on 24". So if you are looking at the front of the building and your highest peaks are front and back - then those sides can be 24" oc if you want.

We need to talk tomorrow - Thought I had your number here - PM it to me and a good time to call. :ss


Ron

[RGD.]

Snow load of 32 does make a difference:

Southeren Pine 2x6 with 24" oc and a snow load of 32 psf = 9-6" max span.
Southeren Pine 2x6 with 16" oc and a snow load of 32 psf = 10-11" max span.
Southeren Pine 2x8 with 24" oc and a snow load of 32 psf = 12-7" max span.

Remember though that these are clear spans. Framing makes a difference. I'll call ya early afternoon my time and we'll talk about your design/needs.

Later,

Ron

[captain53]

Sounds like RGD has you well taken care of.:tu

[HK3-]

Hope to see pictures of your project! :tu

[stitch]

Sounds like RGD has you well taken care of.:tu
You have no idea, I had a great phone conversation with Ron today,
He's providing me with all kinds of Expert information ...
And damn was it ever nice to just chew the fat with a long time Brother.
Living out here where I do I never get to meet any of you,
That phone call with Ron was just awesome ... Makes it all real.
This place really does amaze me sometimes :tu

[RGD.]

You have no idea, I had a great phone conversation with Ron today,
He's providing me with all kinds of Expert information ...
And damn was it ever nice to just chew the fat with a long time Brother.
Living out here where I do I never get to meet any of you,
That phone call with Ron was just awesome ... Makes it all real.
This place really does amaze me sometimes :tu

Yeah but next time can you make your voice sound more like Sam Elliott - that way it matches your image - :ss

It was great talking with you Jeff. I'll have the drawings finished up later tonight and get them over to you.

Ron

[JaKaacH]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B48D60wH8gA&feature=player_embedded

[stitch]

Well ... I can talk the talk, And I can walk the walk ....
But unfortunatly I don't have the voice ... Oh Well he probably has it trade marked anyways :D

[SSDVC]

If it were my building, I would do 16" OC for the walls and if it's just a shop building, 2x4's will provide enough insulation space (and spray in foam would be great). 2x6 is expensive and it will take a while to get pay back in energy savings.

For the roof, 2x10 16" OC with collar or rafter ties every 3 or 4 rafter sets. Use a standing seam metal roof and you will have zero problems with the weather. R-38 for the ceiling and do the insulation right.

As for the floor, go with a concrete slab and put a radiant heat system in it when you build it. It will keep you plenty toasty in the winter and in AZ, if you use a solar heater as a back up (or primary) heat source you could save some big money.

I'm no engineer, but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn last night. :)