Anyone experienced with Pergo type flooring?

[poker]

I'm thinking of doing my back guest house in Pergo type flooring. The room is approx. 20 X 25 (500 sq ft).
Theres currently a combo of ugly linoleum and shoddy carpet there now.

Any tips or tricks I should know about beforehand from those who have done it?
I have heard its something fairly easy to do, but I can contract a professional if I feel its way beyond my capabilities.

Thanks in advance on any info at all.

[replicant_argent]

having a level surface is probably the most important part of the prep. liquid floor levelers are commonly available. Overall, the engineered laminate floors are all pretty good quality, I think.
I am debating redoing my man cave floor with it.

[Veritas]

I installed some of this in a closet. It really is as simple as you have heard. The type I used did not require gluing, some do. Check with your local retailer to get the particulars of the product you are using.

I don't have any specific advice but I'm sure others will.

[poker]

The other thing that gets me is why do the prices fluctuate so much depending on the pattern of the Pergo? I mean, its all the same material right? :confused:

[CigarNut]

We had Pergo put in our kitchen, family room, and entry a number of years (>10) ago. We had an installer do it and they did a pretty good job.

In hindsight the biggest gotcha was the border wit other flooring materials. They have moulding that covers the gap, but if there enough of a difference in height between the carpet and the Pergo, then these moulding pieces do not stay in place and require a lot of attention.

We also had a couple of areas in the kitchen where the repeated back-and-forth movement of chairs to/from the table caused wear marks and in a few cases scratches. We had replacement pieces, but unless you are prepared to take a lot of the floor apart to replace the pieces, they cut out the bad ones and glue down the replacements. This means that your "floating floor" no longer floats... Not a show stopper but something I wish I had known before going this route...

[tobii3]

Think about it this way -

Toyota vs Lexus

Nissan vs Infiniti

Same thing, just dressed up more......

[kenstogie]

I've put in 2 pergo-type floors. usually there's a underlayment, then just cut and click. Leave whatever gap for the floating. I say if I can do it anyone can.

[Beer Doctor]

I did my entire great room last Nov/Dec. Hopefully the shape of your room isn't as effed up as mine is:)

I'd recommend getting the stuff with the padding already attached (attached underlay). Also, I personally wouldn't mess with the type that requires glue. I used the "click and lock" type. It was really easy once after the first three rows. It takes awhile to get comfortable but once you do you're home free. I'd recommend a table saw for the rip cuts. I had a circular saw and used a 3 ft level as a guide but it took longer and wasn't as easy as a table saw would be. The circular saw worked fine for the angled cuts but a miter saw, if available, would be simpler. Make sure the wall you start on is straight. If it isn't then you'll have to adjust accordingly. Also make sure the last board will be at least 2 inches wide. I measured the room and divided it by the size of my laminate to make sure the last board was proper size. It was so I didn't have to rip cut my first row and last row.

I highly recommend a good pair of knee pads.

I used the internet a lot as well as a book by Stanley as resources. Check this site out. http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/article.asp?article_id=60245

Good luck!

[replicant_argent]

In hindsight the biggest gotcha was the border wit other flooring materials. They have moulding that covers the gap, but if there enough of a difference in height between the carpet and the Pergo, then these moulding pieces do not stay in place and require a lot of attention.
.

the trick with tall/dense carpet unions is to trim away a rabbeted edge of the carpet next to the seam.

[jmsremax]

The only experience I have with pergo floors are with old mill converted into luxury condos I was selling and within 3 months the pergo floors were rising because of the concrete floors and looked awful. Clearly the floors were not laid down properly, but pergo floors are thin and a few boards snapped....that's how hacked the job was. Personally I would rather put down hardwood that has already been poly-ed.

As long as the wood doesn't see any water or much humidity fluctuation pergo should be fine. Just make sure you have someone who knows what they are doing when installing. Good luck!

[kenstogie]

I highly recommend a good pair of knee pads.


Just like at work. :r

[poker]

Really great info so far guys. Thank you.

[Rob.]

if you choose to go with a click lock type floor, make sure that you buy the thicker version. 8mm vs 12.5mm is a big difference, though it might not seem like it. I have laid quite a few floors and the ease of installment is totally different with the thicker flooring. Also, as a professional, I say go hardwood. I hate laminate. Though I do believe it has a purpose.

[14holestogie]

Say you have a fairly new house with level floors and some linoleum that someone doesn't care for. Is it possible to lay Pergo right over the top of the linoleum?

[replicant_argent]

cheaper than hardwood, and for a non critical use or dependent on resale, I think it is acceptable.

[Rob.]

Say you have a fairly new house with level floors and some linoleum that someone doesn't care for. Is it possible to lay Pergo right over the top of the linoleum?

Can be done, but I would still use proper underlay, others may say you do not need underlay though as the cusionfloor acts as a underlay. And you will need proper drop bars where you meet other flooring types(doorways etc)

[Beer Doctor]

Say you have a fairly new house with level floors and some linoleum that someone doesn't care for. Is it possible to lay Pergo right over the top of the linoleum?

Yes.

[ashtonlady]

Are you working off Cement?
If so this may be an issue with moisture.

[Rob.]

Are you working off Cement?
If so this may be an issue with moisture.

You can buy product to fix that though. Expensive, but can be found.

[wayner123]

IMO, there is no simpler of a floor to put in. The click together is the way to go. I have put in about 6 different rooms. Also make certain to buy the best underlayment. It makes a world of difference not only on sound and feel but also in moisture protection. If you are installing it on top of a floor that is damp, you may want to first put down a moisture barrier. There is a test to find out, if you want I can find the article. I have had bad experiences with the underlayment that is already attached to the laminate. It doesn't allow the floor to "float" as well and it is more of a pain to click together.

The must have tools IMO are:

12" miter saw (you can use a 10", but you will have to flip each plank to cut, which becomes a pain very fast). Or a 10" slider miter saw.

A table saw for ripping the last row

And buy the kit that helps you knock in the planks. Trust me, it's worth the $15-$20.

And a good shot hammer.

There are other tools like a measuring tape, pencil, etc. But that's typical of any carpentry/construction.


As far as pricing goes, there are TONS of different laminates now. Some even have features to mimic hardwood such as grooves and pits associated with real wood. It does pay to spend a little more. Go to an actual flooring store and do the key test if they will allow. The key test is simple, take a car key and whack the crap out of the plank. If it leaves a gouge or mark, go to the next one. Not all stores will allow you do this as they are trying to push the crappy products at a higher margin, so you can just ask them about hardness and if they can prove it. Lowes and Home Depot though, you can whack away all you want.

As mentioned before one of the major factors is the accompaning pieces. At Lowes and Home Depot, they have better pricing and sometimes better product, but the transfer pieces and mouldings might not match up well. (they have gotten much better about this in the past couple years though). The flooring stores usually have a better selection of these pieces to match.

All that being said two important things to remeber about laminate flooring. DO NOT get it wet. Even the top of the line "waterproof" laminate will buckle if it sits with water for too long. The occasional spill won't hurt it, but if the floor is damp or in a bathroom it can over time buckle. Also, you can't just pop out a piece to replace. Once it's in place and say you find that halfway back there is a plank that is chipped, you must take out that whole row or many times the whole number of rows before it to replace/repair. So take your time and if you don't like the way a plank might look, go ahead and use another at that time.

[bscottskangum]

Another idea for people is the Bamboo flooring. You can get it in the click and lock systems like the laminates, it is harder than hardwood i.e. more resistant to scratching, and it is actual wood unlike laminates.

I have been going through the pros and cons of all the types of wood/laminate floors lately as I have been wanting to tear up the carpet in the living room.

[floydpink]

Are you working off Cement?
If so this may be an issue with moisture.

I had Pergo Brazilian Cherrywood put in about 2000 sf of my house and it went over concrete. They laid plastic sheeting and it is great.

One of the things I made sure to do was buy some extra laminate and border in case I need to replace any down the road.

[wayner123]

Say you have a fairly new house with level floors and some linoleum that someone doesn't care for. Is it possible to lay Pergo right over the top of the linoleum?

The short answer is Yes. However is it linoleum or vinyl flooring? And where is located at? Answering those two questions may make my answer change.

[replicant_argent]

, and it is actual wood unlike laminates.
.

er.... grass ;)


cool stuff and a renewable resource as well. I am debating that product as well.

[poker]

IMO, there is no simpler of a floor to put in. The click together is the way to go. I have put in about 6 different rooms. Also make certain to buy the best underlayment. It makes a world of difference not only on sound and feel but also in moisture protection. If you are installing it on top of a floor that is damp, you may want to first put down a moisture barrier. There is a test to find out, if you want I can find the article. I have had bad experiences with the underlayment that is already attached to the laminate. It doesn't allow the floor to "float" as well and it is more of a pain to click together.

The must have tools IMO are:

12" miter saw (you can use a 10", but you will have to flip each plank to cut, which becomes a pain very fast). Or a 10" slider miter saw.

A table saw for ripping the last row

And buy the kit that helps you knock in the planks. Trust me, it's worth the $15-$20.

And a good shot hammer.

There are other tools like a measuring tape, pencil, etc. But that's typical of any carpentry/construction.


As far as pricing goes, there are TONS of different laminates now. Some even have features to mimic hardwood such as grooves and pits associated with real wood. It does pay to spend a little more. Go to an actual flooring store and do the key test if they will allow. The key test is simple, take a car key and whack the crap out of the plank. If it leaves a gouge or mark, go to the next one. Not all stores will allow you do this as they are trying to push the crappy products at a higher margin, so you can just ask them about hardness and if they can prove it. Lowes and Home Depot though, you can whack away all you want.

As mentioned before one of the major factors is the accompaning pieces. At Lowes and Home Depot, they have better pricing and sometimes better product, but the transfer pieces and mouldings might not match up well. (they have gotten much better about this in the past couple years though). The flooring stores usually have a better selection of these pieces to match.

All that being said two important things to remeber about laminate flooring. DO NOT get it wet. Even the top of the line "waterproof" laminate will buckle if it sits with water for too long. The occasional spill won't hurt it, but if the floor is damp or in a bathroom it can over time buckle. Also, you can't just pop out a piece to replace. Once it's in place and say you find that halfway back there is a plank that is chipped, you must take out that whole row or many times the whole number of rows before it to replace/repair. So take your time and if you don't like the way a plank might look, go ahead and use another at that time.

Excellent info :tu:tu

[14holestogie]

The short answer is Yes. However is it linoleum or vinyl flooring? And where is located at? Answering those two questions may make my answer change.


Pretty sure it's vinyl. Sorry.

[BigCat]

Another idea for people is the Bamboo flooring. You can get it in the click and lock systems like the laminates, it is harder than hardwood i.e. more resistant to scratching, and it is actual wood unlike laminates.

I have been going through the pros and cons of all the types of wood/laminate floors lately as I have been wanting to tear up the carpet in the living room.

The research I did into bamboo said it was actually softer and more likely to scratch/dent. Just throwing that out there. It does look nice.

[ashtonlady]

From what I have read, yes I am looking too. There are many diffrent grades of Bambo.

[ZJB]

There is definitely better stuff out there. As long as you leave proper spacing around the edges it should be fine.

[St. Lou Stu]

Remember to leave the 1/8" gap against the walls for expansion as mentioned earlier. This can be covered up with the base molding once you're done.

Also, wear shoes and long pants.

Trust me..... I had two incidents, one where I snapped two pieces together only to entrap a piece of skin just below my knee in the joint...... you wanna talk about painful and phuckin funny all at the same time? You've never seen anything like me jumping up shouting obscenities taking most of the floor with me! :r

incident 2 was just a piece of sock.... forever trapped in a joint. I'm the only one who notices it or even knows where it is. But every time I see it it reminds me of incident #1.

[Blueface]

Kelly,
I recently helped my son complete an upstairs project that involved three continuous rooms and a hallway in between.

In addition to all that has been said, screw Pergo. Go with Armstrong or any other. I had an awful fight with Pergo, which I won, due to water damage they wre trying to exclude. At the time I got mine, they had an amazing all risk water coverage. They later changed it as it cost them plenty in losses and they spent six months trying to apply a new warranty when all along I had my old one attached to my documents of purchase. Luckily, it was backed by Home Depot on the warranty also, so although Pergo never honored my claim, I threatened a suit to implead Home Depot and their legal department agreed they owed me and reimbursed all my money for the floors.

Now, that said, installation.
The hardest thing to do and what takes the most time is figuring out how it will look when said and done.
Do you want to go one way with the planks or the other?
Once you decide which way, and you measure out how the planks will end up (so you don't end up with a tiny cut on one side, you need to drop a plum line and use that as your guide. From that plum line, measure out and drop another line where you need to start the first full plank near a corner of the room, preferrably the furthest point first, working your way out of the room.

Get the kits for hammering them in and shims. Worth their weight in gold. Shims will help secure the floor from moving when you bang it in, which you will need to do on the short side of the plank.

Once you get going, cuts with the right tools are a breeze and the laying down process goes quite easily. Just spend the time initially figuring out how it will all end up. Connect as many planks temporarily to lay out on the floor if needed to get a better perspective.

His is all done now and next to do and last piece is the stairs. It came out really nice. Whole different process there but also not hard to do. Overall, not a difficult project at all as projects go.

For spacing of planks, we used the 1/3 method. Second plank goes in one third from where first started. Third plank goes at 2/3 thirds of first plank, 1/3 of second and so on to stagger them.

Last thing, Armstrong now comes with the foam backing already attached to the panels. My Pergo involved laying down the foam seperately. Also, if doing it on a second floor, no moisture barrier needed but in doing it on a first floor, with no basement (like a typical Florida home), you will need to first lay down a moisture barrier (plastic), then the foam, then the floor (unless like Armstrong where the foam is on it).

If you need any further help, let me know.
Good luck.

[Blueface]

Remember to leave the 1/8" gap against the walls for expansion as mentioned earlier. This can be covered up with the base molding once you're done.

Also, wear shoes and long pants.

Trust me..... I had two incidents, one where I snapped two pieces together only to entrap a piece of skin just below my knee in the joint...... you wanna talk about painful and phuckin funny all at the same time? You've never seen anything like me jumping up shouting obscenities taking most of the floor with me! :r

incident 2 was just a piece of sock.... forever trapped in a joint. I'm the only one who notices it or even knows where it is. But every time I see it it reminds me of incident #1.

Since we were going to have floorboard molding, we used the company's guide of 3/8" to ensure no issues as this floor will expand and contract.

[BlackDog]

Kelly, I've done gthe floors in 2 rooms with it, and would not hesitate to do it again. The only suggestion I would make that I did not see above is to make a couple of lines that you know are square to the space you're flooring. In my house the walls are not absolutely square, but it would be much more visually apparent if the flooring were not square too. Make the floor square, and then cover up the gaps on the edge with molding trim.

EDIT: Mine was not Pergo, can't recall exactly what it was, but it was a similar tongue & groove parquet-style floating floor.

[wayner123]

That is one more thing I forgot to mention. Take a look at the box of laminate itself. The directions on there (at least the ones for Armstrong and a couple others) are pretty good. They tell you how to measure and layout the floor. And buy at least 10% more than you need as you will have cut pieces that won't match up. If you are left with a box, just return it for a refund.



Pretty sure it's vinyl. Sorry.

No worries. I have done it over vinyl. But the vinyl was a single piece and smooth. Not those vinyl tiles. There are a lot of surface vinyls that have a roughness to them to mimic whatever patern they have. If it's smooth, just add a thin underlayment (no need to buy the expensive stuff) and lay down. I still wouldn't lay it right on top unless it was true linoleum.

[Blueface]

Kelly, I've done gthe floors in 2 rooms with it, and would not hesitate to do it again. The only suggestion I would make that I did not see above is to make a couple of lines that you know are square to the space you're flooring. In my house the walls are not absolutely square, but it would be much more visually apparent if the flooring were not square too. Make the floor square, and then cover up the gaps on the edge with molding trim.

EDIT: Mine was not Pergo, can't recall exactly what it was, but it was a similar tongue & groove parquet-style floating floor.

Warren,
Totally agree.
That is what I alluded to as the plum lines. I like the idea of two of them. One somewhere in the center of the room, wherever the plank should sit once you figure out how they will fit going the width of the room.
From that plum line, you then measure out various points and cut a second one to position the first plank near the edge of the wall.
They often suggest you start with a full plank against the edge but like in my son's case, that would have resulted in nasty small cut on the other end, visible in spite of moulding. Instead, we split the difference of the cut on both sides and started the first plank about half a plank away from the wall (after all measurements).
In the end, it gives a cleaner look. If it works out you can start with a full plank against the wall, no need for a second plum line.

[BlackDog]

That is what I alluded to as the plum lines. I like the idea of two of them. One somewhere in the center of the room, wherever the plank should sit once you figure out how they will fit going the width of the room.
Apologies, I missed that. Reading too fast, thinking too little. ;)

[Blueface]

Apologies, I missed that. Reading too fast, thinking too little. ;)

I am glad you brought it to light more as that is something I have read many folks fail to do, relying on walls that are not square or not realizing the floor may shift on them as they bang away with either no shims or poorly placed ones.

[wayner123]

I am glad you brought it to light more as that is something I have read many folks fail to do, relying on walls that are not square or not realizing the floor may shift on them as they bang away with either no shims or poorly placed ones.

LOL, that's a good point. However I find it fun to get a running start and jump on the floating floor when it's built to see if I can move it. It's worked in a pinch before. :r

[poker]

You guys are great :tu

Talking with a guy here at work who has done it in his own house and he said he'll help me do mine. Looking at the different styles and brands now....

[poker]

The wife and I both like the look of this one. The price though almost seems too inexpensive though. In many things, you get what you pay for but Im not sure that applies here as well. Thoughts?

http://www.lumberliquidators.com/catalog/gsa_search_command.cmd?form_state=searchForm&form_state=searchForm&keyword=7gb&Go.x=0&Go.y=0

[wayner123]

The wife and I both like the look of this one. The price though almost seems too inexpensive though. In many things, you get what you pay for but Im not sure that applies here as well. Thoughts?

http://www.lumberliquidators.com/catalog/gsa_search_command.cmd?form_state=searchForm&form_state=searchForm&keyword=7gb&Go.x=0&Go.y=0

I wouldn't go with anything less than 8mm. Furthermore, I would bet that particular laminate would fail the "key test". One shift of a chair is all it takes to scratch or gouge some laminates.

Lastly they are called lumber liquidators for a reason. I have found them to have off pieces as well as what you might call clearance or discontinued items. While that may be a good thing for cigars, it's not for flooring. Again these are all just my opinions. I would highly recommend getting the samples and/or go to a flooring store and feel the different types.

[poker]

I wouldn't go with anything less than 8mm. Furthermore, I would bet that particular laminate would fail the "key test". One shift of a chair is all it takes to scratch or gouge some laminates.

Lastly they are called lumber liquidators for a reason. I have found them to have off pieces as well as what you might call clearance or discontinued items. While that may be a good thing for cigars, it's not for flooring. Again these are all just my opinions. I would highly recommend getting the samples and/or go to a flooring store and feel the different types.

I figured there was a reason it was so inexpensive. :tu

(sure is nice looking though) :)

[wayner123]

What price range are you looking at? I would say here in FL, to get a good laminate you are looking at around $2.99/sf. Then you need to buy the underlayment which is usually $1/sf. If you need a moisture barrier, that's about another $.50/sf. You are in Cali, so things may be more expensive, but I would say around $3-$4/sf (including laminate) is going to get you quality flooring.

[poker]

Not really worried too much on pricing I guess. I guess 2K-3K maximum would be in my price range (500-550 sq ft)

[Blueface]

The wife and I both like the look of this one. The price though almost seems too inexpensive though. In many things, you get what you pay for but Im not sure that applies here as well. Thoughts?

http://www.lumberliquidators.com/catalog/gsa_search_command.cmd?form_state=searchForm&form_state=searchForm&keyword=7gb&Go.x=0&Go.y=0

Doesn't have padding attached to plank. You will need to lay down padding on your own with this one so incorporate that price also into cost.

If you can, I strongly recommend the one with the padding already on it. My house didn't have it, my son's does. The latter is much easier to do.

[floydpink]

I love my Pergo and wasn't up for a huge project, so I had Lowes do it and got the 12 month no interest financing. The job was about 12k, which sucked, but I donated one year's tax return and am set for a long time. It looks great and they had to rip out some tile areas as well. The amount of dust was amazing when the rugs came up and the house looked so much better when the project was done.

I was amazed that they did the whole job in a day and a half and had to pay a little extra to have them move wall units and all kinds of heavy furniture.


A friend of my wife's says wood and laminate floors are like men; if you lay them right the first time, you can walk on them for life.;s

[BlackDog]

A friend of my wife's says wood and laminate floors are like men; if you lay them right the first time, you can walk on them for life.
Hahaha! I just snorted beer! :r

[stinkie]

speaking from experience make sure that you get an extra saw blade for your miter saw. laminate flooring has a tendency to dull the blades. This is after doing three rooms in laminate flooring. Had to change after each one.oh measure twice cut once. and the 10% rule does apply. because of the cuts you will have to redo and starter cuts also depending on the shape of the room. make sure that the floor is Very clean before you start or you will have problems.



stinkie:ss

[replicant_argent]

speaking from experience make sure that you get an extra saw blade for your miter saw. laminate flooring has a tendency to dull the blades. This is after doing three rooms in laminate flooring. Had to change after each one.oh measure twice cut once. and the 10% rule does apply. because of the cuts you will have to redo and starter cuts also depending on the shape of the room. make sure that the floor is Very clean before you start or you will have problems.



stinkie:ss

One carbide blade. :tu Less messing around, clean cuts.

[Rob.]

Do not buy 7mm flooring. Unless you want to replace it every few months. Also I find that along with a chop saw, a good jigsaw is a must. I have done whole houses with just a jigsaw and a few good blades, no chopsaw or skillsaw. If you set up a proper jig it is nearly as fast and uses less blades/less cost.