Brake pads for my Envoy, I need suggestions.

[shilala]

I have an Envoy 2004 SLT, about 45,000 miles on it.
Just had the rotors all turned yesterday but all the pads are good.
I did get the "They won't last till inspection" warning though.
The originals were Raybestos Professional Series.
I just talked to my buddy PJ, who owns a garage, and he said there's cheapos, midgrade, high grade and ceramic.
He said a bunch are noisy and ceramics don't last long, or something.
I have to do all four wheels and he said it'd be about 300 bucks for good pads installed. I thought that was kinda off the map.

So...
I need four sets of good pads that won't be noisy and won't eat my rotors (which are nearly brand new).
Any suggestions? I'm gonna go shopping today and see what I'm looking at. It'd be a big help to know what I'm looking for before I go looking.

I even thought I might go with the OEM pads being they lasted so long?

[poker]

Axxis makes good pads in various compounds

[68TriShield]

I always used Bendix.

EDIT: Disc brake pads are easy to install yourself.

[Starchild]

Looking at Advance auto online, Wagners, which are good, are $56 FR, $63 Rear. So that gives you an idea how much labor is.

I've never heard that ceramic wear faster than metalic pads, but I usually stick with the higher end metalic.

[Starchild]

EDIT: Disc brake pads are easy to install yourself.

:tpd:

[poker]

The Four Main Types of Brake Pads

Semi-Metallic

Semi-metallic brake pads contain a mix of 30 to 65 percent of metal and typically include chopped steel wool or wire, iron powder, copper or graphite mixed with inorganic fillers. They also contain friction modifiers that bond all the components together. These pads have a reputation of being durable and of having excellent heat transfer; however, they wear rotors down quickly, are noisy and may not perform up to par in cooler temperatures.


Non-Asbestos Organic

Sometimes listed as organic or NAO, these types of brake pads are made from fibers such as glass, rubber, carbon and Kevlar. In addition, non-asbestos organic brake pads have filler materials and high-temperature resins. These pads are softer and quieter than other types of pads, but they wear faster and create more brake dust.

Low-Metallic NAO

These types of brake pads are made from an organic formula mixed with small (10 to 30 percent) amounts of copper or steel to help with heat transfer and provide better breaking. With the added metal, there is more break dust and they might be slightly noisier.

Ceramic

These are composed of ceramic fibers, nonferrous filler materials, bonding agents and possibly small amounts of metal. They are lighter in color and more expensive than other brake pads and are cleaner and quieter. In addition, they offer excellent braking without wearing down the rotors. Most ceramic-based linings perform well in a wide variety of areas; but for some, other materials work just as well – if not better. Ceramic is not a generic term for a type of friction material – it is a description that covers a wide spectrum of friction materials. The only thing they have in common is that they contain some kind of ceramic as an ingredient.

[e-man67]

Very easy to install...I don't buy ceramic b/c they didn't last me any longer. I would be surprised it you needed rear pads...hell the rears will last you 75k+ on the rears since most of the breaking is done (pressure) on the fronts.... disk break pads for decent ones on domestic cars run about $40 or less for for both sides. Autozone had these lifetime pads for like $30 and when they wear out (which they do) you take them back with your reciept and they hand you another set at no charge. If you need a coach on DIY I can walk you through it.

[shilala]

I always used Bendix.

EDIT: Disc brake pads are easy to install yourself.
My Envoy is all 4 wheel abs, and I think I have to bleed the calipers to push them back.
Rolling around on the ground all crippled up ain't much of an option, either, but I'll probably be too stubborn not to do them myself. :)

[Patron]

I love the ceramics......no break dust and IMHO they last just as long as all the rest. I have the ceramics on both my vehicles.

[skibumdc]

yup. sad what shops charge to do simple pad changes when all you need are simply hand tools.

[shilala]

I was kinda thinking about these for the front (http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQGMCQQEnvoyQQEBCQQBrake_Pad_SetQQ20022005QQE35DP6 1618.html).
The backs are like new, and they don't make noise, so I probably won't mess with them at all.
Since I got the rotors turned, I can hear the right front doing a little whining.
Rather than letting them hog up the rotors, I might as well change them now, I was thinking.

[e-man67]

You don't have to bleed the breaks...just compress the piston on the caliper with a c-clamp...U might have a little break fluid come out of the top of your break fluid res but you can top it off when done...very easy and you save a bunch of coin.



http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsShelf.jsp?displayName=Brake+Pads+-+Front&itemId=1233-0&isSearchByPartNumber=&sortType=null&totalPages=[I@1eda25&currentPage=1&vehicleNValue=&navValue=14401233&parentId=44-0&fromString=&fromWhere=null&filterByKeyWord=&categoryNValue=&categoryDisplayName=Brakes+%26+Traction+Control&_requestid=315238

I would buy the duralast DG182 for $38.99

[shilala]

You don't have to bleed the breaks...just compress the piston on the caliper with a c-clamp...U might have a little break fluid come out of the top of your break fluid res but you can top it off when done...very easy and you save a bunch of coin.
I was reading and the guys get all excited about backing up caliper fluid into the abs system cause it can screw them up?
I'm not scared, but I'd just as soon beeed when I compress the calipers and just top off the fluid.
Make any sense?

[aich75013]

Agreed. This is what I do.
A c clamp works great to compress the piston.
I'd help you but your kinda far away.

I've. Nver bled mine.
Posted via Mobile Device

[e-man67]

I was reading and the guys get all excited about backing up caliper fluid into the abs system cause it can screw them up?
I'm not scared, but I'd just as soon beeed when I compress the calipers and just top off the fluid.
Make any sense?


Not sure why it would screw anything up...it's just fluid...I would go c-clamp, $40 pads, and spend the other $260 on cigars. :ss

[elderboy02]

On my old car I got tired of all the brake dust. I asked my Dad (mechanic) what to do, and he said to install Akebono brake pads on it.

He put them on and they were great.

[shilala]

Not sure why it would screw anything up...it's just fluid...I would go c-clamp, $40 pads, and spend the other $260 on cigars. :ss
I'm gonna go that way, c-clamp wise, but I'm gonna spend a little more money for pads that won't eat my rotors. :tu

[aich75013]

Plus cheap pads will probably squeal. I always buy better pads for that reason.
Posted via Mobile Device

[shilala]

Plus cheap pads will probably squeal. I always buy better pads for that reason.
Posted via Mobile Device
That'd drive me out of my mind. :td

[DBall]

Use a few gurkhas... :tu

[e-man67]

That'd drive me out of my mind. :td


They squeal when they glaze...take the unused pad and rough it up on the concrete before you put them on...just make a few circles...U can also use anti-squeal.

[St. Lou Stu]

Welp I was a GM tech for 9 years and couldn't stand any of the OE pads that they used.
Ceramic are decent, not too overpriced, but will shorten the life of the rotors (hardly noticable though).

I would go with a ceramic personally.

Buy here... http://www.rockauto.com/
Even with shipping they are still usually cheaper and have GREAT customer service.

[shilala]

Welp I was a GM tech for 9 years and couldn't stand any of the OE pads that they used.
Ceramic are decent, not too overpriced, but will shorten the life of the rotors (hardly noticable though).

I would go with a ceramic personally.

Buy here... http://www.rockauto.com/
Even with shipping they are still usually cheaper and have GREAT customer service.
I got Raybestos Professional Grade Plus Ceramic. Same kind that was on it. Only cost me 60 bucks out the door for the front axle. :tu
Now if it wasn't thunderstorming, I'd roll around and put them on.
I think I'll call my little brother and get him to do it for me. :)

[St. Lou Stu]

That's what little brothers are for, eh?

[shilala]

That's what little brothers are for, eh?
You betcha. :)

[Hitagain]

Use a few gurkhas... :tu

They wear too quickly and make your car smell funny.......

[mosesbotbol]

I put Akebono's on my Jag and they are quiet and very low dusting. They are not the ultimate gripping power, but no complaints.

[shilala]

I am now going to attempt to put the pads on the Envoy.
I'm going to try to keep count of how many times I curse. I need a ruling on this, though. Do the curse words I don't say out loud count?

[e-man67]

I am now going to attempt to put the pads on the Envoy.
I'm going to try to keep count of how many times I curse. I need a ruling on this, though. Do the curse words I don't say out loud count?


You won't have a problem...just 2 bolts for the brake caliper, remove caliper from atop rotor, remove old pads, compress piston on caliper with c-clamp, slide or clip pads in, slide caliper back over rotor, insert caliper bolts again,Done! repeat other side! :ss

[okieRob]

I put a set of ceramics on my truck for the first time a couple of months ago and I have been very happy with them. Around here most of the part stores offer a lifetime warranty on their parts. I'm the type to keep a vehicle for years and years so I don't mind paying a little more for the pads one time. If I wear them out I'll get a second set at no charge.

Using a C-clamp - why didn't I think of that? :confused: I used a huge pair of channel lock pliers to apply slow and steady pressure until veins were popping out of my forehead.

- Rob

[kenstogie]

FWIW a couple point.... on my old Nissan Rear Disc Brakes you have to TURN the Piston on the caliper in not just push it so watch out for that AND garages mark up the price of parts also to pad the bottom line it pretty common place though.`

[shilala]

That took a whole hour and ten minutes.
Zero curses, lost no brake fluid at all, took it for a ride, and stopped at the audio store down the street to look for an all-in-one nav unit/dvd/stereo.
You guys saved me 250 bucks.
Thank You!!! :)

[shilala]

My calipers had two pistons. I used my wood clamps. I drew one down, pulled that clamp off, used a smaller slamp to hold it, and then used the larger clamp to draw down the other.
Popped them both off and threw them aside. Took ten seconds or so. :)

[St. Lou Stu]

My calipers had two pistons. I used my wood clamps. I drew one down, pulled that clamp off, used a smaller slamp to hold it, and then used the larger clamp to draw down the other.
Popped them both off and threw them aside. Took ten seconds or so. :)

Nice!
sounds like your ready to start a side bidness ;)

For future reference, don't take the inner (piston side) pad off. Use it to clamp on and apply pressure to both pistons at once compressing them both back home all at once.

Don't ya love time saving tips after the fact?:r

[shilala]

Nice!
sounds like your ready to start a side bidness ;)

For future reference, don't take the inner (piston side) pad off. Use it to clamp on and apply pressure to both pistons at once compressing them both back home all at once.

Don't ya love time saving tips after the fact?:r
All I did is used my big wood clamps to draw back the caliper enough to pull it off the pad assembly. The padd assmbly stayed laying on the rotor. That took three seconds.
The caliper compression deal only took ten seconds.
The big slow down in the whole deal was that both my 3/8 and 1/2 Craftsman wratchets are shot. I fought with them the whole way.
I will be going to Sears to have them replaced today.
Maybe right now, as a matter of fact.
I have to get some ice on, eat some more pills, apply my tens unit, and do some praying first cause my back is trying to kill me and if they give me any sh!t at Sears I'm likely to have some sort of philosophical disagreement that ends up with bloodshed and jail time. :r

[TheTraveler]

... and if they give me any sh!t at Sears I'm likely to have some sort of philosophical disagreement that ends up with bloodshed and jail time. :r

I've offered my steel toe boots (with me in them) up for service to Al if any butt or nad kicking is needed with the insurance company. Give me a holler if the guy at Sears gives you any lip! :D

[aich75013]

Sounds like it went okay. Great to hear.

Last time I replaced a few ratchets at Sears, they were very nice. They gave me refurbished ones, but that was okay with me.

[shilala]

I got my wratchets, no problem whatsoever.
Didn't need to sign a paper, get a receipt, and the kid never got off the phone till we were almost done.
Then he saw my ipod touch and we talked about that. He has the same one.
He hates Verizon Wireless and is switching to AT&T so he can get an iPhone, too. :D

[lightning9191]

I got my wratchets, no problem whatsoever.
Didn't need to sign a paper, get a receipt, and the kid never got off the phone till we were almost done.
Then he saw my ipod touch and we talked about that. He has the same one.
He hates Verizon Wireless and is switching to AT&T so he can get an iPhone, too. :D

You gonna adopt him?:r

[shilala]

One last observation and I'll shut up about my brakes (maybe)...
The old pads were only about half gone. They'd have easily got another 20 or 30k on them.
The difference in stopping power is HUGE with the new pads on.
I just put new tires on it about a month ago, now the new brakes up front, plus the rotors turned Monday, and man, does it stop way better. Takes a lot less effort on the brake pedal, too.
Plus it doesn't shimmy anymore when I stop and I bought the expensive tires so they oughta last a long time, plus they're silent.
I couldn't be more pleased with the whole experience. :)

[shilala]

You gonna adopt him?:r
I should, but everyone hates Verizon Wireless. I don't have enough bedrooms to adopt them all. :D

[St. Lou Stu]

One last observation and I'll shut up about my brakes (maybe)...
The old pads were only about half gone. They'd have easily got another 20 or 30k on them.
The difference in stopping power is HUGE with the new pads on.
I just put new tires on it about a month ago, now the new brakes up front, plus the rotors turned Monday, and man, does it stop way better. Takes a lot less effort on the brake pedal, too.
Plus it doesn't shimmy anymore when I stop and I bought the expensive tires so they oughta last a long time, plus they're silent.
I couldn't be more pleased with the whole experience. :)

Oh... now that you mention that......
Proper (or even at least) wheel nut torque is essential on most GM vehicles.
That is where your 'shimmy' comes from. It is caused by lateral runout that is a result from uneven torque.
100 ft. lbs. is the spec on yours. (103 actually, but 100 is goot enough)

If you just lean on them while tightening, you may have them tight enough, but they WILL be uneven. The first time you hit a puddle or snow with semi-hot rotors.... poof, warped and the shimmy is back.

[e-man67]

I am glad it went well...there is a pride in doing things yourself!

[shilala]

Oh... now that you mention that......
Proper (or even at least) wheel nut torque is essential on most GM vehicles.
That is where your 'shimmy' comes from. It is caused by lateral runout that is a result from uneven torque.
100 ft. lbs. is the spec on yours. (103 actually, but 100 is goot enough)

If you just lean on them while tightening, you may have them tight enough, but they WILL be uneven. The first time you hit a puddle or snow with semi-hot rotors.... poof, warped and the shimmy is back.
That makes lots of sense. The right front rotor was the one that was warped and caused the shimmy.
I have the SLT aluminum wheels. They're real soft.
Now I'm gonna have to go get a torque wrench and check them all.
Thanks Tim!!! :)

[St. Lou Stu]

That makes lots of sense. The right front rotor was the one that was warped and caused the shimmy.
I have the SLT aluminum wheels. They're real soft.
Now I'm gonna have to go get a torque wrench and check them all.
Thanks Tim!!! :)

That 103 is all Envoy 2002- models/all wheels.

Side note: I said I used to be a technician... now I design service equipment and work closely with the dude at GM who controls those wheel fastener torque specs. So.... you can trust that with a certain degree of certainty. ;)

I'm crazy into wheel stuff like you are with your beads :D

[shilala]

That 103 is all Envoy 2002- models/all wheels.

Side note: I said I used to be a technician... now I design service equipment and work closely with the dude at GM who controls those wheel fastener torque specs. So.... you can trust that with a certain degree of certainty. ;)

I'm crazy into wheel stuff like you are with your beads :D
I already bought in 100%.
That's why I'm gonna go buy a torque wrench. A good one, too. :tu
I have to take my daughter to the park right now anyways, and Hovis is right over by there. They should have a decent one. That's where I got my brake pads yesterday.
I bought windshield wipers there that actually work on my Envoy once, too. Even the rear wiper blade works, which was the first one ever.
They're making a believer out of me. They got good stuff. :)

[shilala]

That 103 is all Envoy 2002- models/all wheels.

Side note: I said I used to be a technician... now I design service equipment and work closely with the dude at GM who controls those wheel fastener torque specs. So.... you can trust that with a certain degree of certainty. ;)

I'm crazy into wheel stuff like you are with your beads :D
Hey Tim,
Got the torque wrench and got them all torqued.
Some needed some definate attention. Thanks for the help, brother!!! :)