Homebrewers - Whats in the fermenter?

[Pitmaster]

I am going to try to knock out some pale ale this weekend. Any one else brewing?
MIke

[okieRob]

I haven't brewed in a year....I need to dust off the brew kettle.

[Ollie]

Nothing until after april 15. :(

[lightning9191]

An IPA currently....just bottled an oatmeal stout about a week ago.

[Drat]

Bottled a DIPA last weekend.
Bottling a honey red tomorrow
Have an amarillo hop pale ale that I mutated with 2.5 lbs of honey and 30 oz of golden raisins down for a long nap in secondary
Have a chocolate russian imperial stout that developed an infection 8 months ago sitting in the corner. I haven't been brave enough to taste it yet. I might end up being okay. I've been meaning to check it out but haven't had any bottles ready for the slight chance that it is actually good.

[Mark C]

16 gal of Central Coast Syrah. Just freed up a 6 gal carboy so I'm going to start beer soon, looking for a good kit now.

[kaisersozei]

Once I get my outdoor station set-up for spring time brewing, I'll cook up a Bell's Two-Hearted Ale clone.

Aging a DFH 90 Minute IPA clone that I'm not that happy with. It's settled down & clarified very nicely, but for some reason the profile is more like an old ale or Barleywine than an IPA. Too fruity. :mad:

[leasingthisspace]

Great thing about homebrewing even when your not happy with it it is still beer.

[Pitmaster]

I am going to make a Mexican inspired beer after this pale ale with some agave nectar I picked up, we will see how that comes out
Mike

[kaisersozei]

I'm pumped! Last year I planted some hops rhizomes--a pair of Cascades & a pair of Nugget. They had decent growth, nothing spectacular, although I wasn't expecting much since it was their first year and they had to establish a root system.

Was just walking around the "herb" garden and noticed substantial growth already from the Cascades mound--easily 4", and these things hadn't even broken the surface last weekend!

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii88/kaisersozei/Hops.jpg

Hop vines can grow 12"/day thru the middle of summer. I'm hoping for a good harvest this year :dance:

[lightning9191]

I'm pumped! Last year I planted some hops rhizomes--a pair of Cascades & a pair of Nugget. They had decent growth, nothing spectacular, although I wasn't expecting much since it was their first year and they had to establish a root system.

Was just walking around the "herb" garden and noticed substantial growth already from the Cascades mound--easily 4", and these things hadn't even broken the surface last weekend!



You'll have to keep us updated.....at least make sure you post pics of any hop harvest you have this year.

[Drat]

I'm pumped! Last year I planted some hops rhizomes--a pair of Cascades & a pair of Nugget. They had decent growth, nothing spectacular, although I wasn't expecting much since it was their first year and they had to establish a root system.

Was just walking around the "herb" garden and noticed substantial growth already from the Cascades mound--easily 4", and these things hadn't even broken the surface last weekend!

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii88/kaisersozei/Hops.jpg

Hop vines can grow 12"/day thru the middle of summer. I'm hoping for a good harvest this year :dance:


Congrats. Be careful using first year hops in your brews. Most people recommend only using them for dry hopping until the third year harvest. Can't seem to remember the specific issues, but I'm pretty sure it has to do with the flavor being raw/off when they are new...

[Footbag]

Just put 5 gallons of American pale ale in the fermenter. Watching it bubble!

[WildBlueSooner]

Dang....makes me want to get back into homebrewing!

[tooomanycolors]

dont personally make beer but I do dable in mead

In the primary I have a lambic braggot
In secondary I have a belgian triple braggot, and a habanero capsicumel
and ready to bottle I have a peach melomel

[Drat]

I'm excited. I found out late yesterday that I made it through the first round of the National Homebrewer's Competition. Took 1st place in category 19 (strong ale) for the northeast region with a score of 37 for my old oak ale (the same one I gave away on the contest board last month). I now go up against 29 others for the category finals.

[LichtS]

I'm excited. I found out late yesterday that I made it through the first round of the National Homebrewer's Competition. Took 1st place in category 19 (strong ale) for the northeast region with a score of 37 for my old oak ale (the same one I gave away on the contest board last month). I now go up against 29 others for the category finals.

Congrats Bud! Are you bottling? If so I would love to try it!

[Drat]

Congrats Bud! Are you bottling? If so I would love to try it!

Unfortunately this one went really fast. I'm brewing it again with a few tweaks to the recipe in July, which means it'll be ready to drink next April...

[kaisersozei]

I'm excited. I found out late yesterday that I made it through the first round of the National Homebrewer's Competition. Took 1st place in category 19 (strong ale) for the northeast region with a score of 37 for my old oak ale (the same one I gave away on the contest board last month). I now go up against 29 others for the category finals.

Congrats, Brian! 37 points is a nice score. I hope they still give out those cool first round awards--would make a nice framed addition to your brew house! :tu

Keep us updated on your beer's progress :gl

[Shaerza]

Ive got a nut brown kit batch in the secondary right now. I managed to ruin my second batch so I figured I better keep it cheap till i get another batch I dont ruin. My first batch ever tho, was a pretty awesome IPA. Excited to keep going with this.

[bigswol2]

I've made a blackbery cabernet but I haven't tried beer.

[kaisersozei]

I'm pumped! Last year I planted some hops rhizomes--a pair of Cascades & a pair of Nugget. They had decent growth, nothing spectacular, although I wasn't expecting much since it was their first year and they had to establish a root system.

Was just walking around the "herb" garden and noticed substantial growth already from the Cascades mound--easily 4", and these things hadn't even broken the surface last weekend!

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii88/kaisersozei/Hops.jpg

Hop vines can grow 12"/day thru the middle of summer. I'm hoping for a good harvest this year :dance:

So it's 2 1/2 months later, and this is how my Cascades look:

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii88/kaisersozei/Hops062809.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii88/kaisersozei/Hops062809b.jpg

I believe the vine system is supposed to stop growing ~ mid-July, when the plant goes into flower to produce the hops cones. I did have a support system attached further up the side of the house, but we just finished residing so that had to go. Gonna have to set up a sturdier trellis system next year!

[kenstogie]

in the past month I've brewed a American Style Pale Ale, a Hefe and a Dunkelweizen. Not sure but What do you think should be next??

[SeanGAR]

Kegged an American Brown and APA today.

[SchizoFilly]

Waiting to empty a keg so I can free up a fermenter. Any DFW people up for drinking a IIPA, Double Stout, or (not mine) fruit flavored ale?

[BeerAdvocate]

I put an American Wheat in the fermenter last night. Im going to transfer to Secondary in a few weeks and add a can of Oregon Raspberry puree, to make a Raspberry Wheat.

[kenstogie]

I put an American Wheat in the fermenter last night. Im going to transfer to Secondary in a few weeks and add a can of Oregon Raspberry puree, to make a Raspberry Wheat.

Good Choice with the Hefe. Not sure as I am no expert, but aren't the "extras" added in the initial boil?

[SeanGAR]

Good Choice with the Hefe. Not sure as I am no expert, but aren't the "extras" added in the initial boil?

No, you want to have the flavor remain as intact as possible so you add the fruit after the main fermentation is completed. The canned fruit doesn't need to be boiled as it is already hot filled.

[kenstogie]

No, you want to have the flavor remain as intact as possible so you add the fruit after the main fermentation is completed. The canned fruit doesn't need to be boiled as it is already hot filled.

Again I am no expert but am trying to understand. So the canned fruit wouldn't add germs or bacteria and ruin the beer?

[SeanGAR]

Again I am no expert but am trying to understand. So the canned fruit wouldn't add germs or bacteria and ruin the beer?

Canned fruit is thermally processed in the can to kill anything that could spoil it. It is not as clean as commercially processed green beans, say, because you don't need as long/hot a process because the fruits has low pH, but you still don't need to worry about bacteria or wild yeast in the canned fruit products.

I just clean off the top with soap and water, rinse, open, and pour in.

The processing of the canned fruit can be done 2 ways. One would be to heat up the fruit to 83C or so, can it, seal it, then invert the cans. We call this hot fill. The heat from the hot fruit will kill microorganisms in the can.

The second would be to fill the cans cold, then after heat them so the internal temperature reaches 83 or so. This is similar to the Pasteurization process that they use for beer.

In either case, the fruit is clean enough to use directly even though it has not received a 12D commercial sterilization process.

[Shaerza]

My American brown is finally tasting good after 4 weeks in the bottles.

I hope to get a porter of some sort brewed tomorrow night.

[kenstogie]

Canned fruit is thermally processed in the can to kill anything that could spoil it. It is not as clean as commercially processed green beans, say, because you don't need as long/hot a process because the fruits has low pH, but you still don't need to worry about bacteria or wild yeast in the canned fruit products.

I just clean off the top with soap and water, rinse, open, and pour in.

The processing of the canned fruit can be done 2 ways. One would be to heat up the fruit to 83C or so, can it, seal it, then invert the cans. We call this hot fill. The heat from the hot fruit will kill microorganisms in the can.

The second would be to fill the cans cold, then after heat them so the internal temperature reaches 83 or so. This is similar to the Pasteurization process that they use for beer.

In either case, the fruit is clean enough to use directly even though it has not received a 12D commercial sterilization process.
I think I got it. THANKS! Would it add any dicernable amount of ABV boost with the added sugars?

[SeanGAR]

I think I got it. THANKS! Would it add any dicernable amount of ABV boost with the added sugars?

It will increase the alcohol, depending of course on how much you add. Adding a 3# can of non sweetened fruit puree to a 5 gallon batch won't increase the alcohol that much. The other reason you don't boil that I forgot to mention is that you can set the pectins present in fruit and create a permanent haze. OK in a wit or hefe but in that light blueberry lager not so much.

[Yote]

Bottled a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale clone last weekend, and now trying my first attempt at culturing yeast from this batch and some real deal Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. Kitchen looks like a lab at this point. Was going to just "wash the yeast" in the ferminter but decided to just try and go all out. And since I decided to do that, figured I would try to culture from the real thing too.

Will brew again next weekend if I can get the yeast up and going :). Should be interesting to see how the yeast has adapted to my brewing environment and how far it might stray.

[BeerAdvocate]

I started my HopHead IPA this weekend. Its bubbling away in the fermenter and smelling great, I cant wait to dry hop this sucker and bottle it!!

[Bluce]

Got an American Bock, conditioning in bottle for one more week.
And a German Celabrator on deck. :banger
Cant wait to start developing my own recipes.

[BeerAdvocate]

I dryhopped my IPA today with 2oz of Cascade Leaf Hops!!
I cant wait to drink this sucker in another month!

[okieRob]

I dryhopped my IPA today with 2oz of Cascade Leaf Hops!!
I cant wait to drink this sucker in another month!

That is some good looking stuff there man :banger

I've only dry hopped with Cascade once but I was really happy with the result. Let us know how it turns out.

- Rob

[kaisersozei]

I dryhopped my IPA today with 2oz of Cascade Leaf Hops!!
I cant wait to drink this sucker in another month!

Can't wait to hear how this turns out!

FYI, I've found that dry-hopping with pellets works better than whole hops. The outcome of the beer is about the same, but it's a lot easier to get them in & out of the carboy, and to siphon off the beer. :2

[kenstogie]

Havn't seen much love for the Homebrewer thread soooo
Bought all the stuff for a Chocolate Porter. It's a recipe not a kit as I am getting board with off the shelf kits :sleep: soooo bought all the stuff.

After purchasing I noticed the biggest expense in the brew was the DME and the LME.
Any suggestions on the best place (ie cheapest) place for such things?

[kenstogie]

TAX Trick in NY

Also I was told (in NY anyway or maybe just my county not sure) that....

--If you buy a kit with bottle caps in it you get taxed on the whole kit.
--If you buy a kit without them or just the ingredients you don't. Who knew?

So buy buying the ingredients I saved rouglly 6 bucks, can taylor the brew to my taste and still have leftover grains for the next batch. :tu

[kenstogie]

So did some searching on Homebrewtalk.com and found the following info for DME and LME

http://dmemart.com/ cheap and free shipping 11.99-12.99 per 3lb bag DME
www.austinhomebrew.com has good prices generally and has 7.99 flat rate shipping
www.morebeer.com free ship over 59

Here's a more complete list of online stores. I have not ordered from any of them but many form homebrewtalk have.

Online Homebrew Suppliers
Annapolis Homebrew Supply
Annapolis, MD

Austin Homebrew Supply
Austin, TX
Large selection of recipe kits available in extract, mini-mash, and all-grain versions, including many commercial clone kits. Equipment and ingredients also available. Flat shipping.

Beer-Wine.com
Woburn, Massachusetts
I used Beer-Wine.com this week and was very happy with the service and speed of the delivery. I put in a order for some liquid malt extract to test them out and 2 hours after I put in my order online I received a email that it had been shipped, received it on thursday. All this was with the cheapest shipping option. ~ crum

DeFalco's Home Wine & Beer Supply
Houston, TX

Freshops
Philomath, OR
"Purveyor of fine hops, hop oil, and hop rhizomes"

Homebrew Adventures
Charlotte, NC

Homebrewer's Outpost
Flagstaff, AZ

HopTech
Dublin, CA
Hop supplier recommended by HomeBrewTalk users

Michigan Brewing Company
Webbersville, MI

MoreBeer
Concord, CA
Free shipping for orders $59 and over

Midwest Supplies
Minneapolis, MN

Northern Brewer
St. Paul, MN

Williams Brewing Supply
San Leandro, CA

[BeerAdvocate]

I am doing a Coffee Porter right now.
Yesterday I cold pressed 2 cups of coarse grind Starbucks Italian Roast and added the coffee to secondary. Smelled amazing!!!

[kaisersozei]

I am doing a Coffee Porter right now.
Yesterday I cold pressed 2 cups of coarse grind Starbucks Italian Roast and added the coffee to secondary. Smelled amazing!!!

Good luck with that! One of the things I found out with my first coffee porter is that coffee has a detrimental impact on head retention--I think it's something about the oils. If you're bottling, you might want to prime with a bit extra sugar. Mine took about 6 months longer to mature as well, but once it did--:banger I used Starbucks Sulawesi. Great stuff--in fact, I still have a few bottles from my very first batch of it... more than 12 years old!

[Steve]

Man this sounds good. I got to get me some brewing equipment again one of these days!

[kenstogie]

Man this sounds good. I got to get me some brewing equipment again one of these days!

All you really need is basically 2 5-gallon buckets and a big pot. it's EEEE-ZZZZ

[Steve]

Yea. I had a couple of 6 gallon carboys and a 7.5 gallon SS pot a while back taking up space ( I hadn't brewed in a few years) in the garage, so I passed them on to an at the time co-worker who was into brewing. He left the company and has dropped out of sight since.

One day...

[landhoney]

Doing a Lost Abbey Cuvee de Tomme (sp?) clone this weekend. I've got a Saison going now, and a Christmas Spiced(lightly) beer, and sort of an Imperial Brown Ale as well (it was an Imperial Stout Recipe that I cut back on the roasted grains a bit).

[Scimmia]

I was planning an English IPA for this weekend, but my malt didn't get here in time. Finally going all grain!

[MikeyC]

I just drank the last few bottles from my first home brew. I made a stout that I added orange and chocolate to. For the orange I used zest and for the chocolate I used cacao nibs. It was a bit smokier than intended and the orange wasn't as prominent as I would have like, but considering it was my first brew ever I think it came out really well.

[kenstogie]

I got a hold of some non-pastuerized, non chemical added cider (illegal to sell in NY) and added campden pills let it sit over night. Boiled up a pound of Brown sugar and mixed it up, sprinkled some star wine yeast and it's fermenting a day later. 2 weeks later I'll have some cider. First time and I don't know if it will clarify but I'm guessing it will. Talk about easy.

[GWN]

Love to do a Scotch cask-aged brew similar to Innes&Gunn. Just have to find the cask :)

[BeerAdvocate]

I transferred a Porter to secondary today and added a pint of Makers Mark and 2 ounces of Oak cubes. Hopefully this will be semi-ready for Christmas!

[JohnnyKay5]

I transferred a Porter to secondary today and added a pint of Makers Mark and 2 ounces of Oak cubes. Hopefully this will be semi-ready for Christmas!

sounds delicious

[kenstogie]

Cider is essentially done all fermented. Took a sample or two or three ;) and it basically tastes like white wine to me anyway. Any suggestions on how to sweeten it? or If I should?

[kenstogie]

In addition to the Cider I have a Chocolate Porter/Stout brewing. It started as a porter but with an OG of 1.1 apprx and has pounds of Grains, 2 cans LME, 2 LBS of DME and 1 oz of hops. Plus 1/2 Lb of Carapills for mouthfeel. I am thinking it'll be more like a Imperial Stout when done. It's bubbling like a mad man. I imagine it will take a good 4 months before I want to drink it (at least) and will age nicely but I will certainly "sample" some along the way!

[Scimmia]

Cider is essentially done all fermented. Took a sample or two or three ;) and it basically tastes like white wine to me anyway. Any suggestions on how to sweeten it? or If I should?

You planning on natural carbonation? If not, kill off the yeast and add some apple juice concentrate to sweeten it slightly.

[kenstogie]

It's a toss up between having a sweet cider and having carbonation. I am thinking of splitting it and doing some of both. For the sweet I was going to crash it and simply add some sort of sugar (concentrate is a great idea BTW) and just use priming sugar for the carbonated stuff.

[BeerAdvocate]

I started Northern Brewers Fat Tire clone today!

[kenstogie]

I also order two kits from morebeer.com. it was the first order and an hour after I paid for it I got an email saying they were out of stock on something :( I wasn't so sure about them at that point. So I called the next day at 9 but they are cali time so I had to wait until 1200. :( when I finally got through they had the product back in stock :) they shipped it later that day. :) So all's well that ends well. We'll see how the kits are. Free shipping for orders of 60 beans. Which for this order was 20 lbs :O



Scottish Export 80/- (Extract)
(Makes 5 gallons) This Scottish Export has a rich malty character balanced by a firm Glacier bittering hop. Bready toasted notes will come through as you drink it. Scottish Exports are great session beers and are meant for bulk consumption. The 80/- represents the original tax applied to the beer style in Scotland. The beer style is pronounced eighty schilling. This kit includes our dry yeast Safale US-05.

Estimated Original Gravity:1.045-49
SRM (Color Range: 17
IBU's: 28-37 Estimated Alcohol Percentage: 4%





Extra Special Bitter- Extract

(Makes 5 gallons) Big, smooth malt flavor and the mellow aroma of Vanguard hops. In the English draft style, with a firm hop bitterness and mellow hop flavor. The extract for this kit is made entirely from Marris Otter Pale Malt, which lends a great flavor to this beer.

Estimated Original Gravity:1.045-49
SRM (Color Range: 11
IBU's: 39-42 Estimated Alcohol Percentage: 4.5%

Color Chart (http://www.franklinbrew.org/brewinfo/srm.html)

[Darrell]

I just bottled my American Brown Ale. Next week a nice Stout will be started. :dr

[JohnnyKay5]

I just bottled my American Brown Ale. Next week a nice Stout will be started. :dr

excellent choices

[JohnnyKay5]

Good luck with that! One of the things I found out with my first coffee porter is that coffee has a detrimental impact on head retention--I think it's something about the oils. If you're bottling, you might want to prime with a bit extra sugar. Mine took about 6 months longer to mature as well, but once it did--:banger I used Starbucks Sulawesi. Great stuff--in fact, I still have a few bottles from my very first batch of it... more than 12 years old!

:dr

[kenstogie]

Kits get delivered tomorrow. :)

After brewing my own, I find it hard to drink off the shelf stuff.

Is this wrong?

[BeerAdvocate]

2 kits from Northern Brewer:

Phat Tyre
Patersbier

[kenstogie]

2 kits from Northern Brewer:

Phat Tyre
Patersbier

I was checking their site and notice they mention using white ordinary table sugar for priming. Is this recommended? I kind of like the idea as it's cheap and readily available. Although I would probably not be inclined to use it, What about using DME?


Here's a link on the subject but doesn't really say if there are any downsides to them.

http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter11-4.html

Also heres a chart I found on the matter also.

[Scimmia]

The only downside to using table sugar is that sucrose is a disaccharide of fructose and glucose that the yeast has to break apart, then convert the fructose into glucose before it can metabolize it. That's why most people use corn sugar, being pure glucose it can be metabolized without any extra work. You can use DME, but it takes more of it since it's less fermentable, as well as being more expensive to start with.

[kenstogie]

Am I understanding this the only down side is time? No flavor difference?

[Scimmia]

Since you're working the yeast a bit harder, there's a potential for there to be a flavor difference, but since we're only talking about a few ounces for priming, you'll never taste it. Using DME could certainly change the flavor since you're adding unfermentables as well. There are people that claim DME gives them "finer" carbonation, as in smaller bubbles, but there's nothing to back that up, and many others that tried it and claim no difference.

[kenstogie]

Since you're working the yeast a bit harder, there's a potential for there to be a flavor difference, but since we're only talking about a few ounces for priming, you'll never taste it. Using DME could certainly change the flavor since you're adding unfermentables as well. There are people that claim DME gives them "finer" carbonation, as in smaller bubbles, but there's nothing to back that up, and many others that tried it and claim no difference.

THanks for the INFO BRO!!

[Scimmia]

Any time. Just make sure you use the correct calculation for whatever type of sugar you end up using!

[kenstogie]

Any time. Just make sure you use the correct calculation for whatever type of sugar you end up using!

http://www.4tnz.com/files/images/exploding_soda.t_200_0.gif

[Scimmia]

It could be worse than that, glass bottles tend to explode if overcarbed too much. That would take quite a bit, but it's happened over and over again.

[kenstogie]

It could be worse than that, glass bottles tend to explode if overcarbed too much. That would take quite a bit, but it's happened over and over again.

I never had a bottle explode (thankfully). I assumed that the caps would blow off. The actual glass blow apart?

[Scimmia]

Yep, they generally call them "bottle bombs". It's usually from bottling before fermentation is done, but way too much priming sugar could do the same thing.

[Darrell]

Is Northern Brewer a pretty good site to order from?

Also, what are "prime" conditions for aging beer?

[cherrybomb]

darrell pretty much the same conditions for wine; cellar temperature 55- 60 degrees and try to keep the temperature as constant as you can

[Darrell]

Is beer even worth aging?

[Scimmia]

And yes, Northern Brewer is a good site, but being in Cali, I would suggest MoreBeer.com. In fact, they have a retail outlet pretty close to you from the looks of it.

[Scimmia]

Is beer even worth aging?

Depends on the beer. Generally beers like barleywines and imperial stouts age well, while hoppy or ligher beers don't.

[cherrybomb]

I agree, although I would say hoppy beers age pretty well if they are higher in alcohol (10% and up) Actually anything above 10% could spend some time in the bottle as long as they are bottle conditioned

[cherrybomb]

check out a review on thomas hard's rare english ale, they say it can age 20 + years I have had one from the 2005 vintage and one from 2007 and I can say there is a noticeable difference.

[Scimmia]

I agree, although I would say hoppy beers age pretty well if they are higher in alcohol (10% and up) Actually anything above 10% could spend some time in the bottle as long as they are bottle conditioned

Depends on what you're looking for, I guess. The hop character and bitterness will fade over time. IPA, DIPAs, etc are meant to be drunk young.

[ODLS1]

I have an American Pale Ale and Kentucky Common in the fermenters that I will be kegging and taking to family Thanksgiving. I have a big family and we like to drink. Brewing my Foreign Extra Stout this weekend, then probably an Imperial IPA.

[kenstogie]

And yes, Northern Brewer is a good site, but being in Cali, I would suggest MoreBeer.com. In fact, they have a retail outlet pretty close to you from the looks of it.
My recent order was from Morebeer.com and I am pleased. I haven't made the kit's yet but I received my order right on cue and have heard many good things about them from homebrewtalk.com forums.
:2

[BeerAdvocate]

I never had a bottle explode (thankfully). I assumed that the caps would blow off. The actual glass blow apart?

Leaving too much headspace in the bottle can cause bottle bombs also.
I learned this the hard way on my 2nd beer I brewed. It was the last amount of beer in my bottling bucket and I didnt want to waste it so I bottled it and it only filled the bottle half way. I went ahead and capped.
Two weeks later, at about 4am I hear glasses shattering. Im still finding little pieces of glass in my brewing room in the basement.

[kaisersozei]

I never had a bottle explode (thankfully). I assumed that the caps would blow off. The actual glass blow apart?

The only time I've ever had bottles explode was when I was storing a case of homebrew in my girlfriend's townhouse. She kept them close to a heat register in the winter, which likely pissed the yeast off and some of the bottles broke apart at the shoulder (right where the bottle neck starts.) Fortunately they were still in the box, but I lost about half my beer onto her carpet. She ended up marrying me anyway.

Is beer even worth aging?

The right kind of beer is, as others have pointed out. I have some holiday spiced beer and other high alcohol content homebrew from 1996/1997 timeframe, that I crack open on special occasions. Gets better and better.

[kenstogie]

How long does No Rinse last in a spray bottle or any other container?

Also what are the other options for sanitation and the pros/cons of them?

[ODLS1]

I would definitely get some Star San. It should last you a lifetime. Get a nice sturdy bucket (I use an Ale Pail) and 5 gallons of Distilled Water. Use 1oz of Star San per 5gal of water. By using distilled water it will last months, maybe even years. You can use tap water, but it won't work as well for as long due to the minerals in it.

I kegged my Kentucky Common earlier and sampled it. Tastes great. 6.75lbs of grain resulted in 5.2% abv, at about $10. I love it.

[Scimmia]

How long does No Rinse last in a spray bottle or any other container?

Also what are the other options for sanitation and the pros/cons of them?

Depends on which "No Rinse" sanitizer you're using. The most common are Iodophor, Star-San, and One-Step. One-Step isn't really a sanitizer, more of a cleaner with a little bit of sanitizing ability. Even then, since it's bicarbonate based, it won't last long, a few hours would be it. Iodophor will last a bit longer, but it does break down, a couple of days would be stretching it IMO. Star-San, as mentioned, will last a long time, especially if you use distilled water. It's significantly more expensive, but it's much more convenient than Iodophor since you can keep it around, and it won't stain your equipment. You also don't have to worry about tasting iodine in your beer. Really, we're talking about pennies per batch, so even significantly more expensive doesn't have much effect in the end.

[kenstogie]

Great Story Gerard. "she married me anyway" :tu

Thanks for the thoughts on sanitizer. I have been using one-step for the last 10 batches w/out incident but will look into the others.

I bottled my cider and used ordinary table sugar (boiled of course) for priming. I "sampled" a bottle today on a hike and am over all pleased, just a slight carbonation at this point but will develop. There's slight "odor" to it and I am hoping it will die with age. ABV is around 8% and it has some kick.

[Scimmia]

One-Step is basically the same thing as OxiClean, just with a different base material to make it easier to work with. Sodium Percarbonate becomes a weak hydrogen peroxide solution in water. This does well with cleaning and but only OK with sanitization.

If you look at the packaging, One-Step never actually claims to be a sanitizer. They can't since they have never proved that they meet the FDA required levels of sanitization. I got some One-Step with my first equipment kit, so I used it for cleaning until it was gone, but always followed up with Star-San as a sanitizer. After it was gone, I just used OxiClean Free. One benefit to this is that you're using an alkaline cleaner, then following up with an acid sanitizer, so it's a more complete system.

[kaisersozei]

One-step also does a great job of removing labels from bottles. Just soak the bottles for a few hours in a bucket with about a Tbsp or two, and the labels slide right off.

Bottled the OktoberFast Ale last night that icantbejon and JohnnyKay helped me brew a few weeks ago. Extremely clear coming out of the secondary, and tasted just right. I plan on salvaging the Irish Stout yeast that I used, but will get around to that later this week. Intend to use it in one of my stout recipes later this month.

[smokinghole]

I've got some cider in a primary right now. Started it on 11/12. Didn't think to by a hydrometer while at brew store so I don't have OG and will only be able to estimate my ABV based on the recipe I sort of followed.

Recipe as follows:
5 gal freshly pressed cider from local orchard (unpasteurized no preservative)
4lbs dark brown sugar
1.5lbs table sugar
WLP775 English Cider yeast

The orchard will do handshake type transactions on cider for unpasteurized and preservative free. Back in 2002ish PA passed the pasteurization/preservative laws. You leave them a bottle with a big enough opening for the tank nozzle and you get the stuff for $3 a gal.

While I was working at the cigar shop saturday the wife complained about the smell (didn't use yeast nutrient) and so I stuck a nato threaded gas mask filter on top of my vapor lock. No more fart smell. I was able to take blame for the fart smell the first couple days with my regular flatulence but while I was gone she figured it out. Should be racking to a secondary around thanksgiving and then bottling mid december. This is my first batch of cider I hope it doesn't taste like white wine. When I go to my secondary I will add some currently frozen cider to the mix which will start a bit more fermentation and I will attempt to crash it in the garage (cold in december) after two weeks, let it clear up and then bottle. I'll be going for slightly sweet with carbonation.

[smokinghole]

I have another fermenter going as of saturday. It's a recipe I got from homebrewtalk.com. It's called Graff and here is the recipe. http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f81/graff-malty-slightly-hopped-cider-117117/

Will bottle in about two weeks and drinking by Christmas. Hopefully.

[icantbejon]

I am waiting on the secondary process right now, which is going to end up driving me crazy. I would definitely prefer to get this stuff in bottles and then drink. UGH! But it's ok, I guess this stuff will be ready just in time for my parents to get in town for Christmas.

[kaisersozei]

I am waiting on the secondary process right now, which is going to end up driving me crazy. I would definitely prefer to get this stuff in bottles and then drink. UGH! But it's ok, I guess this stuff will be ready just in time for my parents to get in town for Christmas.

Technically, you could go straight from the primary to bottling as long as fermentation has completed. Take a hydrometer reading to make sure you've reached the final specific gravity you anticipated. The beer will take a little longer to clarify in the bottles, and you may have more sediment to decant, but otherwise it will be fine.

I use a secondary on every batch I brew now, but not when I first started out.

[Scimmia]

The beer will take a little longer to clarify in the bottles, and you may have more sediment to decant, but otherwise it will be fine.

I don't buy it. 1 week in primary + 2 weeks in "secondary" vs 3 weeks in primary, I don't think you'll see differences like that.

[icantbejon]

I'm gonna wait a week I think. No real hurry, other than my own impatience. I'm just anxious to try my own beer. In the mean time, I'll just continue to drink Sam Winter Lager and wait. Might even go back to The Weekend Brewer and get stuff to make a new batch. That could be fun.

[kaisersozei]

I don't buy it. 1 week in primary + 2 weeks in "secondary" vs 3 weeks in primary, I don't think you'll see differences like that.

Differences like what? Jon's beer was about 7 days in the primary.

[Scimmia]

Differences like what? Jon's beer was about 7 days in the primary.

I quoted what I was talking about. You said that bottling from the primary would take longer to clear and give you more sediment in the bottles, which I disagree with for the most part. Leaving the beer in the primary longer would do just as well as transferring to a bright tank.

[kaisersozei]

I quoted what I was talking about. You said that bottling from the primary would take longer to clear and give you more sediment in the bottles, which I disagree with for the most part. Leaving the beer in the primary longer would do just as well as transferring to a bright tank.

My point was specifically to Jon regarding his beer, having only been in the primary for a week. In that case, he'd likely experience exactly those things that I mentioned if he bottled it without additional aging.

[kenstogie]

Well brewed ANOTHER batch. The MOREBEER's Scottish Export 80/- Schilling (http://morebeer.com/view_product/9032/103560/Scottish_Export_80_-_Extract_). A 22.50 extract kit! It said
Estimated Original Gravity would be 1.045-49 but.... it was way higher like 1.060-1.063 or sooo. not sure why but i ain't complaining either. :) bubbling like a mad man.

Any suggestions how long I should let it clarify??

[kenstogie]

For all you All-Grain guys\/\/\/

MoreBeer! Deal of The Day!

KIT475: Kit (All-Grain) - Stout

** Only 3 left at this price! **
Sale Price: $24.95 $17.95 w/coupon code BEERDEAL

[Scimmia]

Well brewed ANOTHER batch. The MOREBEER's Scottish Export 80/- Schilling (http://morebeer.com/view_product/9032/103560/Scottish_Export_80_-_Extract_). A 22.50 extract kit! It said
Estimated Original Gravity would be 1.045-49 but.... it was way higher like 1.060-1.063 or sooo. not sure why but i ain't complaining either. :) bubbling like a mad man.

Any suggestions how long I should let it clarify??

Bad reading. It's easy to do with a partial boil, the top up water didn't get mixed all the way. With an extract kit, there's no way to miss your target gravity that high unless you have way less volume than called for.

Personally, I would let it sit for 3 weeks, then take a gravity reading. As long as it's where it should be, it's time to bottle it.

[smokinghole]

I have another fermenter going as of saturday. It's a recipe I got from homebrewtalk.com. It's called Graff and here is the recipe. http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f81/graff-malty-slightly-hopped-cider-117117/

Will bottle in about two weeks and drinking by Christmas. Hopefully.

This stuff has pretty much settled down. Will take a reading on saturday night and potentially bottle. Wohoo..

My high abv cider is still coming along nicely measured at 1.010 last night, tasted good, lots of alcohol already. I estimate I started close to 1.080 but didn't measure OG.

[MarkinAZ]

:DMy new 'Williams Brewing' Winter 2009 catalog arrived in the mail today...

Is Northern Brewer a pretty good site to order from?
Also, what are "prime" conditions for aging beer?

Darrell, here are some sites I've used and for continuous reference:

http://www.williamsbrewing.com/

http://morebeer.com/

http://breworganic.com/

http://www.whitelabs.com/

http://www.wyeastlab.com/

http://www.freshops.com/

http://www.howtobrew.com/sitemap.html

http://www.realbeer.com/hops/

http://www.byo.com/

http://www.qualityales.com/index.php

http://www.maltosefalcons.com/

I think you'll find information in some of these sites to help in your homebrewing adventure...:)


PS. In regards to your 'aging' question, if you're brewing an English Bitter Ale for example, a prime temperature range is cellar conditions being between 50 - 55* in the bottle following the carbonation process...

[kenstogie]

In addition to the Cider I have a Chocolate Porter/Stout brewing. It started as a porter but with an OG of 1.1 apprx and has pounds of Grains, 2 cans LME, 2 LBS of DME and 1 oz of hops. Plus 1/2 Lb of Carapills for mouthfeel. I am thinking it'll be more like a Imperial Stout when done. It's bubbling like a mad man. I imagine it will take a good 4 months before I want to drink it (at least) and will age nicely but I will certainly "sample" some along the way! The actual OG was 1.08 not 1.1 but has started to develop nicely. It's turning in to Imperial stout taste wise IMHO. Tasted like $h!t a week ago but now not so much. I imagine that it will develop very very nicely, :dr if I can keep my tastebuds off of it. I don't remember what the FG was but the ABV was 8-9%. I don't know if the yeast could take much more even if there was enough fermentables.

[BeerAdvocate]

Big brew day today.
Im doing an Oatmeal Stout and an Amarillo Pale Ale!
These should be done just in time for my SuperBowl party!!!!

[Drat]

This is hands down my favorite topic on this site...

Currently drinking a honey IPA that I burned during boil :(
it's tough getting used to a new propane burner.

New years day I brewed an old ale with honey, vanilla, cinnamon, and will add oak and whiskey to secondary

yesterday was a Scottish ale with grade A maple syrup from Welch's farms in upstate new York. I'll add maple chips soaked in 12yo glenfiddich to secondary

going to be fall before I keg these though.

I'm building a recipe for a 7% pilsner and will brew my honey red again for my brothers birthday before January is done

[Salvelinus]

Drat that maple sounds incredible.

Haven't brewed a batch in two months. And the last batch is gone. Better get on that.

[kenstogie]

Well finally bottled my Scottish Export after about 4 weeks in the fermenter. With all that Christmas stuff to do it was the earliest time I could do it. Have yet to try the carbonated version.

The Imperial Stout is starting to taste fantastic. It's amazing what a month will do for a "big" beer. Can only imagine what 6 months will do.

Found a hefe from summer that was hiding in the back of my brew closet and even though it was good it definately lost some of the flavor it once had. So I guess with those "drink early, drink often"

[kaisersozei]

Bottled the OktoberFast Ale last night that icantbejon and JohnnyKay helped me brew a few weeks ago. Extremely clear coming out of the secondary, and tasted just right. I plan on salvaging the Irish Stout yeast that I used, but will get around to that later this week. Intend to use it in one of my stout recipes later this month.

Just wanted to report that this turned out to be one of the best beers I've brewed in a long time. Clear, great head, excellent flavor profile. It went fast at the VCM Holiday Herf, I gifted a 6 pack to my CEO, and shared some with my family who are pretty much Budweiser-types--and everyone has loved it. If anyone wants a copy of the recipe, let me know. To turn out just right, though, you'll need to coerce JK & Ferg to help you brew it :D

[Mark C]

Thanks to Santa, I pulled the trigger and jumped into this hobby. Been making wine for years with surprisingly good results, time for beer. My keg supplies came yesterday, an Austin Homebrew chocolate raspberry stout kit came today. Should have root beer on tap this weekend (to appease my pregnant wife), and the stout a little further down the road.

[kenstogie]

Thanks to Santa, I pulled the trigger and jumped into this hobby. Been making wine for years with surprisingly good results, time for beer. My keg supplies came yesterday, an Austin Homebrew chocolate raspberry stout kit came today. Should have root beer on tap this weekend (to appease my pregnant wife), and the stout a little further down the road.

****Good Deal, it's a world of difference from "regular" beer. It's hard to drink that stuff.

****My scottish export turned out very nice btw!

AND


***My stout is mellowing soooo nicely. It's going through changes as time passes and it's only been about 2 months. Nice!!!

Going to a herf on Friday and bringing a 12 of my HB's. They always go quick. I highly recommend bringing you Home brew, then you can be the "beer" guy. It's kinda like being a "B" celebrity.

[cricky101]

I'm planning to give home brewing a try and am looking at kits to get started and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions about starter setups that have worked well for them.

I have access to the retail Northern Brewer store in St. Paul, MN and was looking at getting this beginner kit from them (http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/starter-kits/deluxe-beer-starter-kit.html). They do have less expensive and more expensive kits too ...

Anyone experienced brewers have suggestions of anything it may be missing (other than bottles) that I should pick up right away?

[BeerAdvocate]

That is a good starter set from NB. I think its best to start out with 2 carboys.
I bought my starter kit from Midwest, they are a little cheaper.
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/brewing-intermediate-kit-w-two-5-gallon-glass-carboys.html
It comes with 2 glass carboys, but for $20 less you can get 2 better bottles. I prefer glass.
The only other thing you need is a big pot. If you are doing all grain, I suggest getting a turkey fryer setup. If you are going to do extract on the stove, get a pot that is big enough to hold 2-3 gallons.

[Demented]

A braggot I call "BarleyMead"

1 lb Belgian Munich
1 lb Belgian CaraMunich
8 oz Belgian Special B
8 oz British crystal 50-60L
4 oz British crystal 70-80L
12 oz Belgian chocolate
4 oz Flaked barley
1 lb Flaked oats
18 lbs Honey
Wyeast 1098
Lalvin EC-1118
1 tspn Irish Moss
5 oz Corn sugar for bottle priming.

Mashed the malt & flake in 12 quarts water; 30 minute protein rest @ 122 F, 30 minute Alpha Rest @ 158 F, brought the water to 162 F add the roast and steeped for 30 minutes before doing a 6 quart batch sparge @ 170 F.

Boil the wort for 60 minutes, chill and blend with 6lb honey and pitched the Wyeast. O.G. was 1.086.

When fermentation has ended I’ll blend 12lb of honey into the beer, pitch the Lalvin yeast and let it ferment until the completion. Starting gravity last batch was 1.140, the batch finished at 1.018.

Near as I could figure the braggot was 24%-25% ABV, 5% from the grain 19% - 20% from the second addition of honey.



http://hbd.org/recipator/

[Mark C]

If you are going to do extract on the stove, get a pot that is big enough to hold 2-3 gallons.

Walmart sells a 22 qt stainless pot for $40, just grabbed one myself.

Anyone here keg soda? I'm having trouble with carbing my first root beer. I can't seem to get it to pour without foam. I originally tried force carb @40 psig, served at 30psig/38 F through 30 ft of 3/16" line and a cobra tap and all I get is foam. I thought I had a diptube leak, so I changed the o-ring, not much better. It looks like I've got CO2 coming out of solution in the lines, way too many bubbles. If I let it sit overnight, the lines are solid in the morning and the first pour (what was left in the line) is great. After that it goes downhill. Now I'm thinking I overcarbed it, so I'm purging the keg and plan to start over a little lower, maybe around 20 psig and work up from there. I was also thinking maybe I hadn't let the CO2 truly dissolve well into the root beer? I only left it under pressure for a day before I tried to pour, could it be CO2 is merely 'mixed' in the root beer, rather than dissolved, causing it to come out of solution faster? Though I was under the impression not enough time under pressure would give you a flat beer, not a ton of foam. Any thoughts?

[cricky101]

That is a good starter set from NB. I think its best to start out with 2 carboys.
I bought my starter kit from Midwest, they are a little cheaper.
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/brewing-intermediate-kit-w-two-5-gallon-glass-carboys.html
It comes with 2 glass carboys, but for $20 less you can get 2 better bottles. I prefer glass.
The only other thing you need is a big pot. If you are doing all grain, I suggest getting a turkey fryer setup. If you are going to do extract on the stove, get a pot that is big enough to hold 2-3 gallons.

Thanks! That looks like a good way to go. I'm going to try to drive over there this week and check it out.

[Scimmia]

That is a good starter set from NB. I think its best to start out with 2 carboys.

I'm of the opposite opinion. One fermenting bucket and one bottling bucket is perfect 90% of the time. I have a glass carboy, but I only use it for bulk aging, an don't even do that anymore now that I keg.

[Mikes]

10gal of Sunshine Wheat clone from AHB

[BeerAdvocate]

I will be brewing a double chocolate stout tonight. I am going to let it age a good 3 months before I tap it.
I also have a Hop Rod Rye clone that I need to get going.

[kenstogie]

Well did an ESB today. First day using my new pot. why didn't I get a better pot before? It was only 40 bucks at Wallys and had a bottom that is about 1/2 inch thick and built like a tank.absolutely no scorching and it was 22 qt.It didn't even try to boil over.I might even be able to get away with a 5 gal boil. Now I need a wort chiller.
Posted via Mobile Device

[BeerAdvocate]

Well did an ESB today. First day using my new pot. why didn't I get a better pot before? It was only 40 bucks at Wallys and had a bottom that is about 1/2 inch thick and built like a tank.absolutely no scorching and it was 22 qt.It didn't even try to boil over.I might even be able to get away with a 5 gal boil. Now I need a wort chiller.
Posted via Mobile Device


Did you do a stove top boil?
How many gallons did you do?

[kenstogie]

Did you do a stove top boil?
How many gallons did you do? Yup it was stove top. I've heard much good about using turkey fryers, FWIW. I only did a 3.5 gallon boil but I think I could have done 4 and if I push it MAYBE even 5. What a difference I didn't have to watch it like a hawk. NICE. It's already started to bubble.

[icantbejon]

Just brewed up a Nut Brown on Sat. Trying a blow off tube for the first time, so I'm interested to see how that goes. So far, after two days, there is no "blow off" to speak off. Just acting as a typical airlock. I saw some pictures of some really nasty **** coming out of other peoples' tubes before, so this makes me wonder if I've done something wrong. More than likely, I'll say I didn't and I just need to be more patient.

[BeerAdvocate]

Yup it was stove top. I've heard much good about using turkey fryers, FWIW. I only did a 3.5 gallon boil but I think I could have done 4 and if I push it MAYBE even 5. What a difference I didn't have to watch it like a hawk. NICE. It's already started to bubble.

I usually do 3 gallon boils. The water is only a half inch away from the top, but I use Fermcap and never get any boilovers.
I keep thinking about getting that same pot at Wallyworld and doing 4gallon boils, maybe even 5. Just not sure if my stove will get hot enough to boil that much water and how long it would take.

[Scimmia]

Just brewed up a Nut Brown on Sat. Trying a blow off tube for the first time, so I'm interested to see how that goes. So far, after two days, there is no "blow off" to speak off. Just acting as a typical airlock. I saw some pictures of some really nasty **** coming out of other peoples' tubes before, so this makes me wonder if I've done something wrong. More than likely, I'll say I didn't and I just need to be more patient.

The only time you'll get stuff coming out of the blow off tube is when the krausen gets big enough, of course. This usually means a VERY active fermentation and/or wheat in the grist. As long as you keep fermentation temps under control, I wouldn't expect a blow off from a nut brown ale. I've never had a blow off, even with some pretty high pitching rates.

[kenstogie]

I usually do 3 gallon boils. The water is only a half inch away from the top, but I use Fermcap and never get any boilovers.
I keep thinking about getting that same pot at Wallyworld and doing 4gallon boils, maybe even 5. Just not sure if my stove will get hot enough to boil that much water and how long it would take.
In the past I have usually done 3 gallon boils too but with this pot maybe more. I had no problems with my crappy old stove doing the boil and this pot it heated up/boiled quicker because the bottom dissapated the heat and prevented scorching so I could turn it up higher.:tu

With Summer coming I was thinking of trying a Lager. I have been very successful with the Ales. Any words of wisdoms or tips??

[TrickNick]

In the past I have usually done 3 gallon boils too but with this pot maybe more. I had no problems with my crappy old stove doing the boil and this pot it heated up/boiled quicker because the bottom dissapated the heat and prevented scorching so I could turn it up higher.:tu

With Summer coming I was thinking of trying a Lager. I have been very successful with the Ales. Any words of wisdoms or tips??

Do a diacetyl rest between fermentation and lagering. :)

Oh yea, and have fun!

[BeerAdvocate]

Im starting my Hop Rod Rye clone tonight!!!!
Cant wait to have this one on tap!

[kenstogie]

Well did an ESB today. First day using my new pot. why didn't I get a better pot before? It was only 40 bucks at Wallys and had a bottom that is about 1/2 inch thick and built like a tank.absolutely no scorching and it was 22 qt.It didn't even try to boil over.I might even be able to get away with a 5 gal boil. Now I need a wort chiller.
Posted via Mobile Device
The ESB is bottled and after a sample think it'll turn out well. Kind of a toned down pale ale with a slight bitterness (not a bad bitterness) to it. course that was with out the bubbles so we'll see how it is in 2 or 3 weeks.

[MarkinAZ]

Im starting my Hop Rod Rye clone tonight!!!! Cant wait to have this one on tap!

That sounds like one interesting brew Travis:tu

[kenstogie]

Remember, brewing season is around the corner.

[BeerAdvocate]

That sounds like one interesting brew Travis:tu

I love Bear Republics Hop Rod Rye, so hopefully this one turns out close to the same. It will be nice to have 5gallons of it on tap in my kitchen!

[icantbejon]

I'm looking to get my hands on a good Pale Ale recipe. Anyone got something they'd like to share?

[BeerAdvocate]

I'm looking to get my hands on a good Pale Ale recipe. Anyone got something they'd like to share?


All Grain or Extract recipe?

[kaisersozei]

I'm looking to get my hands on a good Pale Ale recipe. Anyone got something they'd like to share?

Check your yahoo email, pops.

[kenstogie]

What beers will age and or just keep well? I would like to brew beers that I could cellar. Any ideas?
Posted via Mobile Device

[BeerAdvocate]

I brewed a bourbon barrel porter 6 months ago that is aging good. Other than that
Barleywines and Imperial Stouts age the best

[kaisersozei]

+1 on the barleywine & stouts. Typically, the higher alcohol content beers tend to cellar the best. You can also put lambics in that category, if you're an adventurous brewer!

Although, I have to admit that just about every beer I've brewed ages pretty well. I've written previously about some "holiday beers" I brewed in 1995 & 1996 that are still very drinkable. My guess is that the yeast pack helps preserve homebrew to some extent, but that's just my :2 Who knows why they keep, I just know that they do!

[kenstogie]

I know my cider ages very well and is SUPER ez to brew but would like beer too. I brewed an imp stout and that's aging well but looking for something more delicate and quaffible.
Posted via Mobile Device

[kaisersozei]

Put a Bohemian Pilsner in my 48 degree garage/gym/brewhouse this weekend. My first lager in about 20 years. :gl After hundreds of ale batches, it's kinda unnerving to see the fermenter bubbling away at such a low temp!

[BeerAdvocate]

There are some great lager beers and Czech Pilsners out there but I dont think I will ever do a lager. I just dont have the desire or patience to.

[BeerAdvocate]

I did a WestCoast PaleAle last night similar to Sierra Nevada.
Simple recipe with all Cascade Hops!

[BeerAdvocate]

Dry Hopped my HopRod Rye Clone last night and started my Toasted Coconut Porter

[ashtonlady]

That Porter sounds good.

[landhoney]

Brewing a Barleywine and an Pale Ale tonight, it's going to be a long night.

[newcigarz]

Brewing a Barleywine and an Pale Ale tonight, it's going to be a long night.

:dr

[kenstogie]

Well knowing summer is on the way and brewing season is pretty much here I got a couple of kits from Austing HB.... The first was a classic dunkelweizen (http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?products_id=12407) and it's great for summer the second I had never heard of was aWheat Stout (http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?products_id=12408) I love wheat beers and stouts so how could I go wrong?

Has anyone ever had a Wheat Stout?
It's described as "a perfect balance between a stout and wheat style beer. It features Black patent, crystal 60 L, black roasted barley, Carawheat®, and chocolate malt. O.G. = 1.054 Approximately 5.2% ABV."

I got the extract kits with the White Labs British Ale liquid yeast.

[landhoney]

Has anyone ever had a Wheat Stout?
It's described as "a perfect balance between a stout and wheat style beer. It features Black patent, crystal 60 L, black roasted barley, Carawheat®, and chocolate malt. O.G. = 1.054 Approximately 5.2% ABV."

I got the extract kits with the White Labs British Ale liquid yeast.

Let us know how it turns out. :tu

[landhoney]

Brewing a Barleywine and an Pale Ale tonight, it's going to be a long night.

:tpd: It was a long night, but both are chuggin away this morning, both using Pacman yeast. :tu Once the Barleywine is done fermenting it's getting racked into my bourbon barrel.

[Jbailey]

Sounds like you got a nice system there Seth.

I've been wanting to start home brewing with friend. Lucky for me he's been doing it for while and got pretty good at it over the years.

All this reading makes be want to start some right now. :tu

[kenstogie]

Sounds like you got a nice system there Seth.

I've been wanting to start home brewing with friend. Lucky for me he's been doing it for while and got pretty good at it over the years.

All this reading makes be want to start some right now. :tu

Do it! I just can't buy beer of this quality for even remotely the same price if at all, nor can I taylor it the way I like as I can w/homebrews.

[Resipsa]

I haven't brewed at all the past few years, my gear is just cllecting dust in the cellar. Have to break it out this spring. Anybody else have one of the fermentap conical fermenters? I've got the ten gallon model

[kaisersozei]

Do it! I just can't buy beer of this quality for even remotely the same price if at all, nor can I taylor it the way I like as I can w/homebrews.

I agree with you on the second part, but homebrewing has definitely gotten more expensive in the past few years. The "hops crisis" really pushed up the price for most of my beers. I'm averaging around $45/batch, unless I salvage & repitch yeast--then I save about $8.

Would still rather brew my own, though!

[ashtonlady]

Okay newbee question. How many ounces is in a final product?

[Resipsa]

Okay newbee question. How many ounces is in a final product?

That's up to the brewer and their equipment. Most people brew 5 gallon batches or multiples thereof. Glass carboys used for the fermentin are generally 5 gallons, my conical fermenter is 10

[Scimmia]

I agree with you on the second part, but homebrewing has definitely gotten more expensive in the past few years. The "hops crisis" really pushed up the price for most of my beers. I'm averaging around $45/batch, unless I salvage & repitch yeast--then I save about $8.

Would still rather brew my own, though!

Buying in bulk, prices are pretty cheap right now. Most hops are $7-$13/lb and base malt is <$25/sack. All plus shipping if you don't live close to a warehouse, of course.

[kenstogie]

I agree with you on the second part, but homebrewing has definitely gotten more expensive in the past few years. The "hops crisis" really pushed up the price for most of my beers. I'm averaging around $45/batch, unless I salvage & repitch yeast--then I save about $8.

Would still rather brew my own, though!
If you buy the specials on the web (AHB, MB) you can get kits 4 25 shipped. That's what I do. Also you can buy DME in bulk that helps too. Just some thoughts to help the fellow BOtLS!
Posted via Mobile Device

[kaisersozei]

As in my cigar purchases, I've tried to support my local B&M for homebrew supplies, but it's getting harder to do. Is there a difference between homebrew supplies from a B&M and those off the Internet? :D:r

(don't answer that...!)

[ODLS1]

I agree with you on the second part, but homebrewing has definitely gotten more expensive in the past few years. The "hops crisis" really pushed up the price for most of my beers. I'm averaging around $45/batch, unless I salvage & repitch yeast--then I save about $8.

Would still rather brew my own, though!

Hot damn! $45 a batch!? I average $8-20, no beers under 5% abv. Are you doing extract? AG + buying in bulk = win. I got 6 POUNDS of hops shipped from hopsdirect.com for about $90. If you bought them in a store at $3/oz, that's about $280. I got 3 sacks of base grains, and a bunch of flaked and specialty grains, 250lbs total, for about $230.

In the fermenter: Belgian Inspired Stout

In the keggerator: Imperial Black Ale, Extra Stout (nitro), Irish Red (nitro), Kentucky Common, Summer Wheat, and Athena's Imperial Mango Hefeweizen (my gf first brew and her recipe, it's good!).

Up next: Dark (Lord) Killer Imperial Stout :banger

[kaisersozei]

Hot damn! $45 a batch!? I average $8-20, no beers under 5% abv. Are you doing extract? AG + buying in bulk = win. I got 6 POUNDS of hops shipped from hopsdirect.com for about $90. If you bought them in a store at $3/oz, that's about $280. I got 3 sacks of base grains, and a bunch of flaked and specialty grains, 250lbs total, for about $230.


I never made the jump to AG. I'm currently renovating the front part of my garage to a workshop/brewhouse, so I may look into it then. Most of my beers now are partial mash, though, so that helps offset some cost. I'll definitely be looking into hopsdirect for bulk purchase.

Dry-hopped my pilsner this weekend, and hope to get it in bottles on Saturday. Brewed a classic red ale recipe with my son two weekends ago--his first attempt at homebrewing!--and it's still happily bubbling away in the primary. Repitched it with a California Ale yeast, looks like it's getting some great attenuation.

[kenstogie]

I am only doing Extract brewing and hey it's pretty easy and makes great beer. But how much of a pain in the A$$ is AG, how much more time/effort does it take, and how easy is it to screw up?? Thanks!

[landhoney]

I am only doing Extract brewing and hey it's pretty easy and makes great beer. But how much of a pain in the A$$ is AG, how much more time/effort does it take, and how easy is it to screw up?? Thanks!

It does not require that much extra equipment, it does take longer but once you get your process down I could do it in my sleep. Smoking a cigar while brewing also makes the time involved seem even less.....time consuming, for lack of a better phrase (as I actually enjoy the brewing process a lot, but maybe not cleaning up). Once you get your system and the process down it's difficult to mess up. I use a turkey fryer, cooler with homemade copper manifold (for mashing and batch sparging), and copper immersion wort chiller (also homemade and works great). I do 5 gal batches (which is plenty at the rate I like to brew and how much I consume).
The benefits are more complete recipe control and options, and control of mash temps which allows more flexibility in how dry or sweet the final beer finishes. There are other advantages, but those are most important to me. You might save some money not having to buy extract, and you're making beer essentially the same way professional breweries make beer, I like that.:2

[kenstogie]

Well gonna brew one of my kits tonight not sure which one so I thought I'd mention it here. Plus I wanted to bump this thread and give it a little life!

[willbreathes]

Hey all, somewhat new here.. been lurking for a while. Figured I will start in an alcohol thread because I know a bit more about that than cigars.

Currently got an Irish Stout finishing up, and more than ready to have an Amber Ale go through the brewing process.

[M.D.M.]

Sadly nothing in the fermenter...But still have some oatmeal stout from the last brew session. Planning on a red and an IPA next.

[Resipsa]

Pretty cool homebrew related video:http://feeds.boingboing.net/~r/boingboing/iBag/~3/XGTQPNiH7I8/homebrew-turing-mach.html

[BlackDog]

Well, I bought a homebrew start-up kit last evening, plus an extra bucket for primary fermenting. A buddy has an extra carboy he's giving me, so I can have two beers in secondary fermentation at the same time.

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/brewing-starter-kit.html

I also got two extract kits, their Liberty Cream Ale (http://www.midwestsupplies.com/liberty-cream-ale.html), and Ferocious IPA (http://www.midwestsupplies.com/ferocious-ipa.html), a clone of Surly Furious. The guy who helped me said it's a dead knock-off of Furious, and was made with Surly's cooperation.

For any of you who live in the Mpls area, I found the people at Midwest Supply to be very helpful. It's basically a small warehouse. The place was busy, I wandered around a little bit until I found someone to help me. But once I found someone, he was super helpful.

[kenstogie]

Congrats on the Homebrew kit. Once I got my kit and learned how to use it my purchase of beer essentially stopped. I now plan ahead for the beer I am going to need and brew accordingly. FWIW I have heard good things about MW supply. Not that I am an awesome brewer even though they all turn out great but one piece of advice.....

"Cleanliness is next to Godliness"

[dentonparrots]

Well, got me some Caxtons Bitter and some of their Real Ale bubbling away. When they've vacated my fermenting vessel I'll be doing some Woodfords Wherry...that stuff's amazing it just takes AGES to settle fully for some reason, so I thought I'd get a few gallons (or ten) of some other stuff ready first so I can leave the Woodfords Wherry longer to before I get tempted into drinking it too soon.

[BlackDog]

Well, I had to make a trip to Midwest Supply to buy a larger kettle. The stock pot we have in the cupboard isn't as large as I remembered it being, so I bought a heavy 5 gallon kettle. But otherwise everything seemed to go well with my batch of Liberty Cream Ale. It took quite a while for the wort to boil, but it did eventually boil. I think 4 gallons of water is the max my electric stove can handle. I boiled one gallon of water seperately and then chilled it to cool the wort faster. And I sucked up some hops when siphoning over to the primary bucket, but I doubt that's a big deal. I pitched with Safale US 05 yeast. Overall it took longer than I thought, but I think it went OK. I used a lot of sanitizer.

I also made a starter for the Ferocious. I'll do that one a night this week. I'm going to use a blow-off tube on that one, since I'm sure it will bubble over out of the primary bucket.

[landhoney]

Brewed a Saison on Sunday, yeast was wyeast 3724 Saison and the dreggs from Fantome Hiver made into a combined starter.
Brewing a Quad this weekend with a friend coming to visit from Miami.

[BlackDog]

Just finished brewing a batch of "Ferocious," a clone of Surly Furious. The house smells like grapefruit times 10, and I've only used half the hops. The other half get dry-hopped in a week.

[BeerAdvocate]

started a Toasted Coconut Porter last night. It will spend a few weeks in primary before I add a pound an a half of toasted coconut to secondary!

[BlackDog]

When I made my Ferocious last night, everything went right according to the receipe until the very end, and then I made several errors. I don't think any of them are show stoppers, but I got careless.

1) When I was hopping at the end, I was supposed to take the 2 oz of hops, split it into 5 batches, and add them at 20, 15, 10 5 and 0. But I mistakenly only made 4 groups, but still followed the 5 hopping time schedule. So I didn't have any left to toss in at 0 minutes. :(

2) When I was rinsing off my stir paddle after I stirred the wort I had chilling in ice, I accidently sprayed water into the wort. :bh

3) When I finally had everything done and the bucket sealed up, when I was putting the airlock on I pushed the rubber gasket through the lid and into the bucket. So I had to open the lid, pour the wort back into the kettle, get the gasket, and do it all over again. :c

Hopefully neither of the last two compromised the sanitation of the wort. I had a strong yeast starter, so hopefully the yeast will get cranked up quickly and knock out any nasties that may have gotten into the wort.

[kaisersozei]

Warren: #3 would be the only thing that might cause me some concern, but not really all that much. Quick fermentation should ease your anxiety!

[M.D.M.]

started a Toasted Coconut Porter last night. It will spend a few weeks in primary before I add a pound an a half of toasted coconut to secondary!

Sounds delicious! :dr

I make a bourbon-oak-vanilla porter every year, I may have to try a little coconut as well.

[BlackDog]

Hopefully neither of the last two compromised the sanitation of the wort. I had a strong yeast starter, so hopefully the yeast will get cranked up quickly and knock out any nasties that may have gotten into the wort.
Warren: #3 would be the only thing that might cause me some concern, but not really all that much. Quick fermentation should ease your anxiety!
The fermentation was underway nicely when I got home from work this evening. I set the bucket up with a blow-off tube into a gallon water jug, and I counted 32 bubbles in 30 seconds. It's really chugging along. The lid is even "domed" a bit from the pressure in the bucket. Hopefully the strong fermentation has aleviated any sanitation problems.

[BlackDog]

I just racked my first batch over to secondary. It's the Midwest Liberty Cream Ale extract kit, with the addition of 1 lb of flaked corn. I used Safale US 05 yeast. It was in primary for 2 weeks at about 67 degrees, and had a strong fermentation for the first few days. There is about an inch of gray creamy yeast left in the primary bucket. The beer tastes OK; like flat, thin beer, maybe a little hefe weizen-ish. If I'm reading it right, the gravity is 1.10.

Does everything look OK? I was expecting it to be much clearer than this by now.

[BeerAdvocate]

Sounds like you did everything right. Just give it time and be patient!

[Salvelinus]

Started a fat tire clone last night. First attempt at all-grain. Need to get a better setup if I am going to continue to do that. Bubbling away this morning though.... it'll be beer.

[kenstogie]

Started a fat tire clone last night. First attempt at all-grain. Need to get a better setup if I am going to continue to do that. Bubbling away this morning though.... it'll be beer.

Even a mediocre home brew is usually better than a store bought beer. :D

[landhoney]

Got my "keggle" cut weekend before last, so the last two batches have been 7.5 gallons instead of 5 gallons as I now have the capacity. Going to try a full 10 gallon batch sometime soon.
Weekend before last was a Belgian Quad, this past weekend was 'English Red' (not really a style, but the beer is a mix of a porter and a red brewed with an English Ale yeast).

BTW, anybody interested in doing a Cigar Asylum beer? We could all brew the same recipe and compare notes. Maybe a clone of something from Cigar City Brewing? Something that would pair well with a cigar?

[newcigarz]

BTW, anybody interested in doing a Cigar Asylum beer? We could all brew the same recipe and compare notes. Maybe a clone of something from Cigar City Brewing? Something that would pair well with a cigar?

You know I don't brew, but I am available for taste tests. :D

[St. Lou Stu]

BTW, anybody interested in doing a Cigar Asylum beer? We could all brew the same recipe and compare notes. Maybe a clone of something from Cigar City Brewing? Something that would pair well with a cigar?

Absolutely!

I haven't started brewing yet, but plan to very soon and I will have plenty to share for Shack if all goes according to the grand scheme.

[ODLS1]

Got my "keggle" cut weekend before last, so the last two batches have been 7.5 gallons instead of 5 gallons as I now have the capacity. Going to try a full 10 gallon batch sometime soon.
Weekend before last was a Belgian Quad, this past weekend was 'English Red' (not really a style, but the beer is a mix of a porter and a red brewed with an English Ale yeast).

BTW, anybody interested in doing a Cigar Asylum beer? We could all brew the same recipe and compare notes. Maybe a clone of something from Cigar City Brewing? Something that would pair well with a cigar?

I'm down, although there is a beer that can go with anything. I still need to cut my keg for 10gal batches. I've only had Cigar City Jai Alai but it was damn good. All of their beers rate great. I guess it depends what kind of cigar we want to pair it with. I'm still a somewhat new cigar smoker, but good maduros and big stouts are amazing together.

[BeerAdvocate]

Im going to keg my Toasted Coconut Porter tonight and dry hop my Pale Ale with Simcoe, Amarillo & Centenial hops

[kenstogie]

BTW, anybody interested in doing a Cigar Asylum beer? We could all brew the same recipe and compare notes. Maybe a clone of something from Cigar City Brewing? Something that would pair well with a cigar?

It's a definate possibility. :)

[kaisersozei]

I just racked my first batch over to secondary. It's the Midwest Liberty Cream Ale extract kit, with the addition of 1 lb of flaked corn. I used Safale US 05 yeast. It was in primary for 2 weeks at about 67 degrees, and had a strong fermentation for the first few days. There is about an inch of gray creamy yeast left in the primary bucket. The beer tastes OK; like flat, thin beer, maybe a little hefe weizen-ish. If I'm reading it right, the gravity is 1.10.

Does everything look OK? I was expecting it to be much clearer than this by now.

Hmm. I'm not trying to be a dick, but I've never had a beer look like that in the secondary. On the other hand, I've never used flaked corn, so that might have something to do with it. :confused: In any event, I wouldn't worry about it.

[BeerAdvocate]

I started a Belgian wheat tonight with coriander and orange peel

[BlackDog]

Hmm. I'm not trying to be a dick, but I've never had a beer look like that in the secondary. On the other hand, I've never used flaked corn, so that might have something to do with it. :confused: In any event, I wouldn't worry about it.
After doing some reading, I believe that when I added the corn, there were not enough enzymes from the malt to convert the corn starches into fermentable sugars. Last week I added some amylase enzyme and a new yeast starter. The amylase enzyme converts starches to sugar. The wort looks a lot better now. Still hazy, but not as cloudy as that picture. I may rack it over to a clean carboy and add some Biofine to help clear it further before I bottle it.

[landhoney]

'Dark' Saison is bubbling away, just a standard saison grain bill with .5 lbs Special B, and 1 lbs D2 - Dark Belgian Candi Syrup added to darken it up and add some raisin/toffee flavors. Bottled an IPA/PA and Saison as well.


And just keeping track in case anyone else is interested:
The following people may be interested in brewing a 'Cigar Asylum' beer:
kenstogie
ODLS1
St. Lou Stu

[kenstogie]

Brewed my Dunkelwiezen yesterday, I hope the Fermentation takes. I fear I may have pitched the yeast at to high a temp. Directions said drop the temp to 80 from boiling in 20 mins. Don't know how that's going to happen without a wortchiller. It was below 90 but above 80 so I hope I didn't kill it. Directions on the Yeast (whitelabs hefe WLP300) say 75.

If I did kill it I will just go buy another tube.

Roger that on the Asylum beer.

[Scimmia]

Brewed my Dunkelwiezen yesterday, I hope the Fermentation takes. I fear I may have pitched the yeast at to high a temp. Directions said drop the temp to 80 from boiling in 20 mins. Don't know how that's going to happen without a wortchiller. It was below 90 but above 80 so I hope I didn't kill it. Directions on the Yeast (whitelabs hefe WLP300) say 75.


You didn't kill the yeast. We keep the temps down to avoid unwanted byproducts, but most yeast is very happy at temps up to 100F. You shouldn't start killing it until you're above 110F or so, and even then very slowly. The problem you may run into is the yeast going dormant. A large temp drop will tend to make the yeast flocculate, even if you're just dropping it to the recommended range. Just get it back into suspension and you should be fine.

I'd be in for a Cigar Asylum beer, depending on the style.

[landhoney]

You didn't kill the yeast. We keep the temps down to avoid unwanted byproducts, but most yeast is very happy at temps up to 100F. You shouldn't start killing it until you're above 110F or so, and even then very slowly. The problem you may run into is the yeast going dormant. A large temp drop will tend to make the yeast flocculate, even if you're just dropping it to the recommended range. Just get it back into suspension and you should be fine.

I'd be in for a Cigar Asylum beer, depending on the style.

:tpd:

And just keeping track in case anyone else is interested:
The following people may be interested in brewing a 'Cigar Asylum' beer:
landhoney
kenstogie
ODLS1
St. Lou Stu
Scimmia

We can all provide input on the style and recipe, hopefully there's at least one style we can all agree on and enjoy. :tu I'm going to wait a little longer and see if anyone else is interested and then maybe start a new thread. And the recipe will be for AG, PM, and extract brewers, so everyone can brew it.

[kenstogie]

You didn't kill the yeast. We keep the temps down to avoid unwanted byproducts, but most yeast is very happy at temps up to 100F. You shouldn't start killing it until you're above 110F or so, and even then very slowly. The problem you may run into is the yeast going dormant. A large temp drop will tend to make the yeast flocculate, even if you're just dropping it to the recommended range. Just get it back into suspension and you should be fine.

I'd be in for a Cigar Asylum beer, depending on the style.

Cool Thanks! I know your supposed to refrig your yeast (which I do) but how long of a life does it have at room temp? I typically take it out an hour or two early but some direction say the night before. What if you couldn't get to brewing for a couple days?

[Scimmia]

I've never seen any numbers for liquid cultures, so I don't know. I usually let mine sit for ~3 hours before pitching it into my starter. I cold crash my starters, so that usually sits out for ~5 hrs while I make the beer.

[kaisersozei]

:tpd:

And just keeping track in case anyone else is interested:
The following people may be interested in brewing a 'Cigar Asylum' beer:

landhoney
kenstogie
ODLS1
St. Lou Stu
Scimmia
kaisersozei


National Homebrew Day is coming upon May 7th, and this Saturday is AHA's "Big Brew:"

http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pages/events/national-homebrew-day

May not be enough time to coordinate something in line with what they're doing, but one of the recipes they've chosen this year is an American Wheat Beer. That could be a good cigar beer.

[kenstogie]

Well the yeast is alive kicking and bubbleling like a mad man. I hope my dunkelweizen turns out well I am bringing it to a herf! home brew always turns out good as long as you follow a coulpe "rules" ;)
Posted via Mobile Device

[ODLS1]

:tpd:

And just keeping track in case anyone else is interested:
The following people may be interested in brewing a 'Cigar Asylum' beer:
landhoney
kenstogie
ODLS1
St. Lou Stu
Scimmia

We can all provide input on the style and recipe, hopefully there's at least one style we can all agree on and enjoy. :tu I'm going to wait a little longer and see if anyone else is interested and then maybe start a new thread. And the recipe will be for AG, PM, and extract brewers, so everyone can brew it.

I vote RIS. Maybe paired with Triple Maduro? Hah. I still need to try that. Like I said I love big Stouts and nice Maduros.

[kenstogie]

National Homebrew Day is coming upon May 7th, and this Saturday is AHA's "Big Brew:"

http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pages/events/national-homebrew-day

May not be enough time to coordinate something in line with what they're doing, but one of the recipes they've chosen this year is an American Wheat Beer. That could be a good cigar beer.

I could be wrong but I was reading May 1st...
Title: AHA Big Brew: Celebrating National Homebrew Day

Date: 05/01/10 12:01 AM - 05/01/10 11:59 PM

In 1988, May 7th was announced before Congress as National Homebrew Day. The American Homebrewers Association created Big Brew as an annual event to celebrate National Homebrew Day not only in the United States, but around the world. Big Brew is held each year on the first Saturday in May.

http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pages/events/calendar

[kaisersozei]

I could be wrong but I was reading May 1st...
Title: AHA Big Brew: Celebrating National Homebrew Day

Date: 05/01/10 12:01 AM - 05/01/10 11:59 PM

In 1988, May 7th was announced before Congress as National Homebrew Day. The American Homebrewers Association created Big Brew as an annual event to celebrate National Homebrew Day not only in the United States, but around the world. Big Brew is held each year on the first Saturday in May.

http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pages/events/calendar

Right: National Homebrew Day is May 7th, but the first Saturday in May (May 1 this year) is "Big Brew" day. So I was suggesting we could sync our Cigar Asylum brew with Big Brew day.

[kenstogie]

That's cool just wanted to understand and have others understand too.

[BlackDog]

Well, 8 days with a half tsp of amylase enzyme seems to have helped a good deal. Or perhaps it was just 8 more days of settling. In any case, my beer seems to look like "beer" now rather than wallpaper paste. Picture comparison below.

I just racked it over to a clean carboy, added a Tbsp of Biofine Clear, and will give it another week before bottling. It's down to one small bubble every 2 minutes in the airlock.

[kaisersozei]

Well, 8 days with a half tsp of amylase enzyme seems to have helped a good deal. Or perhaps it was just 8 more days of settling. In any case, my beer seems to look like "beer" now rather than wallpaper paste. Picture comparison below.

I just racked it over to a clean carboy, added a Tbsp of Biofine Clear, and will give it another week before bottling. It's down to one small bubble every 2 minutes in the airlock.

Much better! I was worried for you...! :tu

[landhoney]

Hopefully brewing my first lager in a loooong time this weekend, Oktoberfest. Got the kegerator set-up to just under 50F (which is the low end for the yeast), so I figure cracking the door every so often and the heat from fermentation (maybe a degree or two) this one will be OK.
Any lager experts? Will 48F be OK to ferment at?

[kenstogie]

I am not a lager expert but after last night I am a lot better at cleaning up after a spillover. ARRRRGH!
Posted via Mobile Device

[BlackDog]

I racked my Ferocious (Surly Furious clone) over to secondary last night, it gets dry-hopped with 3 oz. of hops. I harvested the yeast for a batch of ESB I plan to make in the next week or two. Tastes good now, should taste great once it's dry hopped and carbonated.

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh29/blackdog1101/ferocious1.jpg

[BlackDog]

Did my first bottling tonight. Here is my first bottle (22 oz) and a glass of uncarbonated beer. It's a cream ale, so I think it came out a little cloudier than it should have. This picture makes it look a little pink, but it's really a nice orange/yellow color. I dry hopped it with an ounce of Cascade hops, and it tastes really nice. Now I'll let it sit for a couple weeks to carbonate. :tu

[kaisersozei]

Did my first bottling tonight. Here is my first bottle (22 oz) and a glass of uncarbonated beer. It's a cream ale, so I think it came out a little cloudier than it should have.

Lookin' good :tu It should clarify even more in the bottle, so you may be happier with the results after a few weeks

[kenstogie]

Lookin' good :tu It should clarify even more in the bottle, so you may be happier with the results after a few weeks

So true, plus (in the future I mean) you can let it clarify in the primary or secondary for a while plus theres things to add for clarification too if need be.

[BlackDog]

So true, plus (in the future I mean) you can let it clarify in the primary or secondary for a while plus theres things to add for clarification too if need be.
I got the beer to clear up in secondary, but then I dry-hopped it, and just put the hop pellets directly into the beer. The cloudiness is a little "debris" from the hops. When I moved the secondary carboy to the kitchen I stirred up the hops, and some of them siphoned over to the bottling bucket. Next time I need to let the beer settle a while after moving the carboy before bottling. I figure once I chill the bottles before drinking the residue will "cold crash" to the bottom, and I can leave it in the bottle when pouring into a glass.

[BeerAdvocate]

I got the beer to clear up in secondary, but then I dry-hopped it, and just put the hop pellets directly into the beer. The cloudiness is a little "debris" from the hops. When I moved the secondary carboy to the kitchen I stirred up the hops, and some of them siphoned over to the bottling bucket. Next time I need to let the beer settle a while after moving the carboy before bottling. I figure once I chill the bottles before drinking the residue will "cold crash" to the bottom, and I can leave it in the bottle when pouring into a glass.

I kegged my dry hopped Pale Ale last night. I too use pellet hops. Here is what I do in order to keep the pellet hop debris out:

1. Take a grain bag and cut it in half. Keep the closed end and sanitize it and a rubber band.
2. Use the rubber band and attach the bag to the tube end of your siphon
3. The grain bag will catch all of the hop debris and the beer will filter through the bag = clear beer!!!

Works like a charm!!!!!
If you dont have an extra grain bag to cut, you can go to Lowes or Homedepot and purchase 1 gallon paint strainer bags.

[kenstogie]

Gotch Warren, I should've paid closer attention. I have heard using a muslin (sp)?) bag works great.

[BlackDog]

Mesh bag = brilliant. Thanks for the tip guys!

[Scimmia]

Gotch Warren, I should've paid closer attention. I have heard using a muslin (sp)?) bag works great.

I prefer nylon to muslin in this case. You want them to spread out as much as they can, and the muslin being stretchy will tend to hold them together more. The nylon is also reusable.

[kaisersozei]

An alternative to dry hopping is to make a hop tea which you then add to the bottling bucket. It works okay, but I get much more satisfaction out of seeing those hops floating in the carboy.

[kenstogie]

Stuck fermentation what to do? So I am brewing a wheat stout and been in the primary for a week. OG 1.060. Current Grav is 1.030 but shouldn't have dropped more? It didn't seem to bubble much like usual brews. I used liq Ale yeast. I took a quik taste, it wasn't bad and had what I would describe as a fizz to it. Does this mean it's still fermenting?
Posted via Mobile Device

[landhoney]

Stuck fermentation what to do? So I am brewing a wheat stout and been in the primary for a week. OG 1.060. Current Grav is 1.030 but shouldn't have dropped more? It didn't seem to bubble much like usual brews. I used liq Ale yeast. I took a quik taste, it wasn't bad and had what I would describe as a fizz to it. Does this mean it's still fermenting?
Posted via Mobile Device

You're going to have to give some details of the recipe to make a better determination, but I would say just give it some more time, one week is not that long. The fizz is dissolved CO2 which is and indication that it has been fermenting recently or currently, even after the beer is done fermenting though there will still be some dissolved CO2 in the beer. I think you just need to wait a while longer, it's hard to make hard and fast rules about homebrewing, like "primary fermentation will be done in a week, two weeks in secondary and three weeks to bottle carb. " Doesn't always work exactly like that. :tu Let's see the recipe and keep us updated, but don't check the gravity every day, wait at least a few before trying again, then if it is still at 1.030 we can look for a fix.

[kenstogie]

You are probably right. It always seems to work out. :)
Posted via Mobile Device

[Scimmia]

Liquid yeast, did you make a starter? How fresh was it? How well did you aerate? It's possible it ran out of steam. What yeast are we talking about, anyway?

[kaisersozei]

You're going to have to give some details of the recipe to make a better determination, but I would say just give it some more time, one week is not that long. The fizz is dissolved CO2 which is and indication that it has been fermenting recently or currently, even after the beer is done fermenting though there will still be some dissolved CO2 in the beer. I think you just need to wait a while longer, it's hard to make hard and fast rules about homebrewing, like "primary fermentation will be done in a week, two weeks in secondary and three weeks to bottle carb. " Doesn't always work exactly like that. :tu Let's see the recipe and keep us updated, but don't check the gravity every day, wait at least a few before trying again, then if it is still at 1.030 we can look for a fix.

:tpd: I'd leave it alone for awhile. It may sneak CO2 bubbles out of the airlock when you're not looking :D

[ODLS1]

Yep. Definitely leave it for a couple more weeks. If it's still stuck, dump it on to a yeast cake of a bigger beer. Let that sit for a couple weeks. If it's still stuck use some Amalyse Enzyme.

[BlackDog]

I was just wondering what you guys are brewing, or planning to brew, for the colder autumn and winter months. I've never brewed a heavy gravity beer that needs a long time in secondary, but am thinking of doing something like an imperial stout or porter with the additions of oak, vanilla and bourbon. Midwest has an interesting kit, their Power Packed Porter, wghich I may do with my additions, or something like Denny's Vanilla Bourbon porter.

What will you be brewing for the colder months?

[landhoney]

What will you be brewing for the colder months?

Doesn't get that cold here, but I still like to brew big beers.....

Barleywine (bourbon barrel aged)
'Dark' Saison (trying to 'perfect' a Saison for each season, a'la Fantome)
Smoked Wee Heavy (a'la Hair of the Dog Adam -also bourbon barrel aged)

[Mikey202]

Just bought a brew kit. Got a Dark and Stormy Night Stout. I'm on vacation next week, so that's what I'm going to do one of the days.
I have one question.... the yeast packet I have is a pack, that you bust a bubble inside. I'm used to using yeast in a tube (White Labs). This packet that I have, says that I have to make a starter, ect. Seems like alot of extra work. Can I just activate the yeast pack and then just add it to the wort when the time comes to add the yeast, or do I have to make a starter first?

[landhoney]

Just bought a brew kit. Got a Dark and Stormy Night Stout. I'm on vacation next week, so that's what I'm going to do one of the days.
I have one question.... the yeast packet I have is a pack, that you bust a bubble inside. I'm used to using yeast in a tube (White Labs). This packet that I have, says that I have to make a starter, ect. Seems like alot of extra work. Can I just activate the yeast pack and then just add it to the wort when the time comes to add the yeast, or do I have to make a starter first?

It depends on the original gravity of the beer (what is yours?), and how fresh the yeast is really. But the short answer is that yes you can just smack it and pitch it into the wort. If the gravity of the beer is high, or the yeast is not that fresh making a starter is a good idea. Also, once you make a starter or two it's easy, I make one for just about every batch. Pitching the right amount of yeast will make your beer better, sometimes a 'smack pack' is enough, but other times not (like in high gravity beers or when the yeast is not fresh)

And actually there are two types of Wyeast packs; Activators and Propagators, which do you have? If it's a Propagator Pack then you really should make a starter, they are designed with a lower active cell count to make a starter with, the Activators are designed to be pitched into lower gravity beers without a starter (but should use a starter in the above instances).

[kenstogie]

Well called Austin home brew and it is indeed "stuck". Real friendly great knowledgable guy to deal with explained what to do. Oxygenate and add a yeast fuel. He also explained that my OG (1.060). was a touch high for the ueast just to dump in there. He said 2 things will help improve your beer considerbly
1-consistant accurate temp
2-oxygenating (not aerating per se)

I think that's thje jist I took notes but don't have them here.
Posted via Mobile Device

[BlackDog]

Here it is! My very first glass of homebrewed beer! :)

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh29/blackdog1101/Libcreamale4.jpg

[leasingthisspace]

Looks good to me. I am sure it tasted great.

[kenstogie]

Here it is! My very first glass of homebrewed beer! :)

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh29/blackdog1101/Libcreamale4.jpg

NICE. I wish everyone brewed there own beer and no one bought that watery stuff.

[kaisersozei]

Here it is! My very first glass of homebrewed beer! :)



How was it?!

[Mikey202]

It depends on the original gravity of the beer (what is yours?), and how fresh the yeast is really. But the short answer is that yes you can just smack it and pitch it into the wort. If the gravity of the beer is high, or the yeast is not that fresh making a starter is a good idea. Also, once you make a starter or two it's easy, I make one for just about every batch. Pitching the right amount of yeast will make your beer better, sometimes a 'smack pack' is enough, but other times not (like in high gravity beers or when the yeast is not fresh)

And actually there are two types of Wyeast packs; Activators and Propagators, which do you have? If it's a Propagator Pack then you really should make a starter, they are designed with a lower active cell count to make a starter with, the Activators are designed to be pitched into lower gravity beers without a starter (but should use a starter in the above instances).

It's a Wyeast Lab Propagator. Do I just use some of the malt extract for the starter?

[landhoney]

It's a Wyeast Lab Propagator. Do I just use some of the malt extract for the starter?

Yep, around 1/2 a cup dry malt extract in two cups of water should do it. Just do a search online for any and all instructions you may need, but you're basically just making a tiny little batch of un-hopped beer for the yeast to grow in. :tu Good luck.

[kenstogie]

Brewing/herfing short anecdote...

Was at Birthday herf sharing some Homebrew with an individual (and anyone else that wanted one) who owns a company or two and he was (i think) joking when he said
"tell your current job to go f$%k off, and start a brew house, I'll back it. No I'm serious." Aint no way I a quitting the good gig I got now but that compliment was sure nice. It was just a Dunkelwiezen. :)

[Mikey202]

Yep, around 1/2 a cup dry malt extract in two cups of water should do it. Just do a search online for any and all instructions you may need, but you're basically just making a tiny little batch of un-hopped beer for the yeast to grow in. :tu Good luck.

Thanks.

[Scimmia]

Yep, around 1/2 a cup dry malt extract in two cups of water should do it. Just do a search online for any and all instructions you may need, but you're basically just making a tiny little batch of un-hopped beer for the yeast to grow in. :tu Good luck.

A 1 pint starter is nowhere near enough to grow up enough yeast from a Propagator. That would barely be enough to grow up to the point of the Activator, and that's assuming optimal oxygenation. I would probably be doing closer to a 2 liter starter, and I use a stirplate.

Anyone using liquid yeast cultures should really read up on starters and pitching rates. There's a great article here: http://www.mrmalty.com/pitching.php

[St. Lou Stu]

After a long discussion with Tristan this weekend, I'm commencing the Keggle build this week.
I figured I'd start simple and just do a 1/2" x 4" stainless welded nipple and I could add a sightglass or anything else later.
I'll post up some pics as I progress or finish.

[JHinc]

Ah awesome some homebrewers!

I used to brew at home aswell. But well seeing how i now brew beer for a living the homebrewing has become a little less intresting lol.

[kenstogie]

i now brew beer for a living.
Lucky dog!!!
Posted via Mobile Device

[kenstogie]

Un stuck my wheat stout (which I am told is a heavy duty version of a dunkelwzn) and it started bubbling almost immediately.
A- made a starter yeast out of an Ale yeast pkt I had, let sit for 5 hours (smelled like bread)
B-mixed/pitched in W/yeast energizer ans stirred up the bottom.temp at 72 df
C- recovered
This is by no means the "correct" way (although maybe it is, I dunno) just the way I did it based on various info I have gathered.
Posted via Mobile Device

[landhoney]

I would probably be doing closer to a 2 liter starter, and I use a stirplate.


He never said what the OG of the beer in question was, or the date on the yeast pack, so that could be overpitching. But one pint is probably too small for a Propagator, you are correct (forgot how small they are, I think I have only used them with Brett and Pedio cultures as that is the only way they come, and in those cases they were not used for primary fermentation so I didn't care what size the starter was). :tu

[BeerAdvocate]

I brewed the American IPA kit from AustinHomebrew last night. 4 ounces of hops and smells wonderful so far!

[kaisersozei]

I brewed the American IPA kit from AustinHomebrew last night. 4 ounces of hops and smells wonderful so far!

:dr:tu

[BeerAdvocate]

Im brewing a Centennial Blonde tonight in order to have on hand for the family at 4th of July. Perfect for the BudLight crowd, yet good enough for the microbrew crowd.
Here is the Very Easy & Simple extract recipe:

5.00 lb Extra Light Dry Extract (3.0 SRM) Dry Extract 83.3 %
1.00 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 16.7 %
0.25 oz Centennial [9.50%] (45 min) Hops 7.8 IBU
0.25 oz Centennial [9.50%] (20 min) Hops 5.1 IBU
0.25 oz Cascade [7.80%] (10 min) Hops 2.5 IBU
0.25 oz Cascade [7.80%] (5 min) Hops 1.4 IBU
1 Pkgs Nottingham (Danstar #-) Yeast-Ale

[kenstogie]

Im brewing a Centennial Blonde tonight in order to have on hand for the family at 4th of July. Perfect for the BudLight crowd, yet good enough for the microbrew crowd.
Here is the Very Easy & Simple extract recipe:

5.00 lb Extra Light Dry Extract (3.0 SRM) Dry Extract 83.3 %
1.00 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 16.7 %
0.25 oz Centennial [9.50%] (45 min) Hops 7.8 IBU
0.25 oz Centennial [9.50%] (20 min) Hops 5.1 IBU
0.25 oz Cascade [7.80%] (10 min) Hops 2.5 IBU
0.25 oz Cascade [7.80%] (5 min) Hops 1.4 IBU
1 Pkgs Nottingham (Danstar #-) Yeast-Ale

Love those kinds that are good for all crowd and sometimes it brings em over to t he dark side. I may have to try this.

[EdTexas]

Ya know. It's been a few months since I brewed. I've been looking at the Austin Home Brew Six Malt Amber.